http://chrishurling.blog.co.uk/These are the stories of my travels in South and Central America from September 2005 to April/May 2006. en-UKMokoFeed10http://chrishurling.blog.co.uk/http://data5.blog.de/design/preview/41/a3d538dcc34a121ff7c19263b168d6_160x200.jpghttp://chrishurling.blog.co.uk/2006/05/17/no_hay_conexion~807686/tag:chrishurling.blog.co.uk,2006-05-17:/2006/05/17/no_hay_conexion~807686/Wed, 17 May 2006 19:14:49 +0200 <p>That just about sums up the Cuban internet, and why I wasn't able to publish my blogs on my travels in Cuba until I left the country!<br> <a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=567620"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/620/567620_35322b6ddc_s.jpg" align="" alt="Cuban internet" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a></p> <p>It also describes just how much this country is isolated from the rest of the Americas, although that is mainly the fault of the Imperialist USA trade sanctions. </p> <p>Talking of money, well loosely, that's another frustration. American Dollars were banned here last year and replaced with a special Peso Convertible, which is a licence for the government to rip you off. Firstly the Peso Convertile is colloquially know as a dollar, bus is fixed at $US0.89, <em>and</em> the government casas de cambios take an extra 10% commission if you are changing dollars! Stupidly, I changed 25 of my precious Euros into the other, National Pesos Cubanos, thinking I would get better value for money if I use them. There is actually little you can by with them, except perhaps a bread roll with something dubious inside it from a street vendor. Try changing them back as I did, then all manner of obstacles are put in your way...like trekking across town to a special booth, to find it closed for lunch whilst a long queue of Cubans wait in the sun...<br> <a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=567621"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/621/567621_ea744d02f6_s.jpg" align="" alt="waiting to change Pesos Cubanos" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a></p> <p>So that's pretty much it for Cuba. It is a stunning country, but frustrating if you want to get under the surface, and you need to take a lot of money.</p> <p>Back to Mexico City for a one night stop-over before catching my return flight to London, via Toronto, Yes I know it sounds a long way round, but it was the cheapest option at the time!</p> <p>A truly fantastic 8 or 9 months. I have met wonderful people and seen amazing sights. Have I got the travelling bug out of my system? The next few months will prove that. Many people have asked if the trip has been life changing...I shall think about that one.</p> <p>Lots of love, </p> <p>Chris x</p> <p> <small> <a href="http://chrishurling.blog.co.uk/2006/05/17/no_hay_conexion~807686/#comments">Comments</a> </small> </p>http://chrishurling.blog.co.uk/2006/05/17/no_hay_conexion~807686/#commentshttp://chrishurling.blog.co.uk/2006/05/16/motorcycle_diaries~804462/tag:chrishurling.blog.co.uk,2006-05-16:/2006/05/16/motorcycle_diaries~804462/Tue, 16 May 2006 17:11:37 +0200 <p><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=567591"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/591/567591_d74d83e612_m.jpg" align="" alt="Cayo Jutias" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a><br> <em>(Cuban beach paradise - Cayo Jutias)</em></p> <p>Hungover, after far too many mojitos the night before, I collected my rental scooter! After having been on the back of Ivan's in Medellin, I fancied driving one myself - to the beach at Cayo Juvista.</p> <p>The rental man made it look so easy, but I couldn't get the thing to start! Sus freinos! He shouted. It's automatic, so you have to pull on the brakes to start. You don't think I'd try one with gears first time did you?! </p> <p>Oh the joy of the open road! I am sure this is not they way...supposed to head towwards the caves and carry straight on. Of course, I meant to drive up to this viewpoint of the valley to take photies of the magotes!</p> <p><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=567603"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/603/567603_ca04162b48_s.jpg" align="" alt="Mogotes, Vinales" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=567605"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/605/567605_1d6ad71901_s.jpg" align="" alt="Mogotes, Vinales" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a></p> <p>Back on track, I soon discovered that it helps to lean with the bike as you turn or go round corners. The throttle was now fully open. Wow! The cooling air as it rushes past you. I have no idea how fast the scooter went, as the speedo was broken, but it felt pretty fast for all its 50 cc!</p> <p>The guidebook did say the road deteriorates, but these potholes are like craters! I managed to do an emergency stop pulling hard on both brake handles and using my feet to steady the scooter. Wow, that was an adrenaline rush! Going a little more slowly, the road eventually came to a fork. Like Dorothy on her yellow brick road, I asked the way. 40km back the way I had just come! Shit. I then found out just how rugged the scooter was as I bumped my way back over potholes.</p> <p>I eventually reached the remote Cayo Juvista at around 12.30...three hours on the road! Oh well, I never have liked beaches. All that sand to reflect the sun so burning you even quicker, and then more sand scouring your skin as you apply more sunscreen. Still, an idyllic spot, and umbrellas to rent! Later I took the scooter for a spin along the beach - and few other people about...</p> <p><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=567615"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/615/567615_5fb31b11cd_s.jpg" align="" alt="Cayo Jutias" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=567614"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/614/567614_8aa05df441_s.jpg" align="" alt="rambling in the mangroves" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a></p> <p>The journey back was quicker - just 80 minutes to do 60kms. All these people waiting for non existent buses thumbing a lift. Are they crazy? Don't they know my driving?!</p> <p>I like driving a scooter. Perhaps I'll get one when I am back in London, and of course with job...or perhaps a motorbike!</p> <p>Chris <img src="/img/smilies/icon_smile.gif" alt=":)" class="middle" border="0"><img src="/img/smilies/icon_smile.gif" alt=":)" class="middle" border="0"><img src="/img/smilies/icon_smile.gif" alt=":)" class="middle" border="0"></p> <p> <small> <a href="http://chrishurling.blog.co.uk/2006/05/16/motorcycle_diaries~804462/#comments">Comments</a> </small> </p>http://chrishurling.blog.co.uk/2006/05/16/motorcycle_diaries~804462/#commentshttp://chrishurling.blog.co.uk/2006/05/16/lobster_fest~804326/tag:chrishurling.blog.co.uk,2006-05-16:/2006/05/16/lobster_fest~804326/Tue, 16 May 2006 16:21:04 +0200 <p>Public transport in Cuba is bad, so I thought it best to stay close to Havana. The book suggests a triangle including a country village called Vinales, and a spanish colonial town called Trinidad. I have had more than my fill of pretty colonial towns, so on Wednesday I taxied to the tourist bus station. My God, all these people waiting here, I am going to get a room in Vinales? No need to worry, nearly everyone left on the 1 o'clock bus for Trinidad to get their fix of spanish colonial architecture. There were just 7 of us going to Vinales. </p> <p>Innovative distination board, leaving no question about where the next bus is going!</p> <p><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=552141"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/141/552141_2654c68b19_s.jpg" align="" alt="At the bus station" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=552142"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/142/552142_9823fe39c8_s.jpg" align="" alt="Got any loggages?" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a></p> <p>Signs in english all over the place must have been "signed off" by a bureaucrat who thinks he or she knows english! </p> <p>Naturally, the bus broke down - a blow out - and we waited a good hour or more for the mechanic to come to change the wheel. When we did eventually arrive in Vinales 3 hours later, it was dark, and no waiting casas particulares landladies. As always when faced with adversity, you strike up conversation with others. I met Linda and Tobias from Sweden, and we found a couple of rooms in neighbouring houses. Vinales is a truly peaceful place, chickens running around and pigs keeping the grass short in the front gardens.</p> <p><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=567544"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/544/567544_c2d1450564_s.jpg" align="" alt="Casa Particular - Vinales" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a></p> <p>The next day, I joined Linda and Tobias for a tour of Caverna de Santo Tomas. Fab. A very different cave tour experience. No fancy lighting, indeed the only light came from our helmets, and just 4 of us in the tour group. (Scroll your mouse over the photo to find out what it's about)</p> <p><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=567563"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/563/567563_6dacc4757c_s.jpg" align="" alt="the group" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=567564"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/564/567564_9233354a22_s.jpg" align="" alt="a cave frog" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=567565"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/565/567565_e970003255_s.jpg" align="" alt="playing the stalagtites" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=567566"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/566/567566_21ab3e018d_s.jpg" align="" alt="a stalagmite" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=567548"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/548/567548_6dacc4757c_s.jpg" align="" alt="The tour group" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a><br> The day ended with excrutiating embarassment trying to dance salsa at a Cuban live music night. More mojitos needed!</p> <p>The jewel in Vinales crown are the amazing magotes - square limestone hillocks rising from the valley floor. Again with Linda and Tobias, but on a different day, I rode a horse to see the fabulous countryside in all its tranquility. The "horses" were more like mules. Linda's apparently didn't like mine, it bit me and tried to barge my horse off the path! Pretty cute cowboy who escorted us...</p> <p><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=567573"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/573/567573_f01c636328_s.jpg" align="" alt="cowboy" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a></p> <p>...the first stop was a small farm to be refreshed on grapefruits filled with fresh sugar cane juice, hown grown coffee (or so they said!), and a puff on a cigar. I was buzzing! </p> <p><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=567584"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/584/567584_957f9d10f9_s.jpg" align="" alt="grapefruit cocktail" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=567579"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/579/567579_e19190dd73_s.jpg" align="" alt="in the tobacco shed" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a></p> <p>The next place was to cool off in a natural swimming pool deep in a cave. Sorry, potos didn't come out that well, i.e. not to my liking. I need to go to the gym, or as Shaun put it "you've got udders"! Bitch.</p> <p>Why lobster fest? That was my dinner at the house on my last night, a huge lobster tail cooked in a tomato sauce. Scrummy! It was the night before Mother's Day, so a special meal for the family.</p> <p>Vinales good!</p> <p>Chris <img src="/img/smilies/icon_smile.gif" alt=":)" class="middle" border="0"></p> <p> <small> <a href="http://chrishurling.blog.co.uk/2006/05/16/lobster_fest~804326/#comments">Comments</a> </small> </p>http://chrishurling.blog.co.uk/2006/05/16/lobster_fest~804326/#commentshttp://chrishurling.blog.co.uk/2006/05/14/meeting_people~799584/tag:chrishurling.blog.co.uk,2006-05-14:/2006/05/14/meeting_people~799584/Sun, 14 May 2006 20:07:24 +0200 <p>"I came to Cuba to backpack and meet people. It's driving me crazy! I went to Varadero thinking that's where people will be. I was two nights in a low budget hotel all on my own. I've read nearly all my books and listened to every song on my i-pod, and I only arrived Friday. I've got to get out of here - today if I can get a flight to Mexico. I'd rather backpack six weeks around Sweden"</p> <p>That pretty much captures what a young guy from Norway said to me as we shared a taxi from the bus station. And he is right. Cuba is not geared up for the backpacker. There are no hostels, and the cheapest place that a foreigner can stay in a casa particular. They are very lovely B&B, but too expensive at $30 a night, and you are quite likely to be on your own as there will be at most two rooms. Even in the casas particulares, the family may eat seperately from you.</p> <p>I'm not saying that Cubans ignore you in the street. I took a sunset stroll along the seafront, called Malecon. Would have been absolutely stunning in it's heyday. </p> <p><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=552074"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/074/552074_b002c22722_s.jpg" align="" alt="Malecon at sunset" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=552066"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/066/552066_5e982fa674_s.jpg" align="" alt="Crumbling Malecon" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a></p> <p>There was no shortage of cute young men running after me, wanting to be my friend and know where my hotel is. There is no shortage of eye candy here! And yes, you can easily pay for the company of Cubanos. At the very least you will be picking up the tab for the night you've had with your new found Cuban friends. I did meet Marcus from Switzerland at dinner one night. Interesting guy, worked all over Africa for the Swiss government and then the UN. He met a Cuban guy in a bar and then toured the island with him, naturally paying for everything. I can't afford that, and it's not the the sort of "friendship" I want with locals.</p> <p><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=552079"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/079/552079_1c31c12184_s.jpg" align="" alt="Dinner at sunset" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a></p> <p>The language doesn't make it easy. It's like starting all over again, after 8 months! Cuban Spanish is delivered very fast, and consonnonts are rarely pronounced, making it almost impossible to understand. Cubans also have little patience if you don't understand them, unless they are making money out of you, e.g. your casa particular landlady. </p> <p>There is little public transport, so you really have to travel by tourist bus. This way you are not really going to get to meet Cubans. Some Cuban transport is forbidden for tourists, for example the bicycle rickshaws, called bicitaxis, and in practice you won't get a taxi as used by Cubans to stop for you. You are unlikely to ride on a bus with Cubans, because there is a shortage of buses...</p> <p><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=552122"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/122/552122_48eb0d9ccf_s.jpg" align="" alt="Boarding a Cuban bus" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=552123"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/123/552123_d74cefb31c_s.jpg" align="" alt="Hitching a ride, Cuban style" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a></p> <p>...and long queues...</p> <p><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=552108"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/108/552108_286b75c558_s.jpg" align="" alt="Waiting for a Cuban bus" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a></p> <p>Cuba has been set up as package holiday destination, so if you are on your honeymoon, or are happy to be cocooned in your 4 or 5 star all-inclusive hotel, then it's the palce for you. But you could be anywhere in the Caribbean. You also need to come with plenty of money.</p> <p>Fidel Castro's government has succeeded in finding ways to relieve you of as much of your hard foreign currency as possible, without letting you really get close to Cuba or Cubanos. I have found it much harder than when I visited the old Czechoslovakia in the 80s. At least you could change money on the black market at a good rate and travel by train and bus, even if you did need to register with the state tourist agency, every time you moved!</p> <p>Arrgh!</p> <p>Chris <img src="/img/smilies/icon_sad.gif" alt=":(" class="middle" border="0"></p> <p> <small> <a href="http://chrishurling.blog.co.uk/2006/05/14/meeting_people~799584/#comments">Comments</a> </small> </p>http://chrishurling.blog.co.uk/2006/05/14/meeting_people~799584/#commentshttp://chrishurling.blog.co.uk/2006/05/11/our_man_in_havana~792786/tag:chrishurling.blog.co.uk,2006-05-11:/2006/05/11/our_man_in_havana~792786/Thu, 11 May 2006 22:13:27 +0200 <p><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=551569"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/569/551569_9df3bdf4c2_s.jpg" align="" alt="Colonnades, Havana" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a></p> <p>If I thought I had overdosed on Spanish Colonial cities, then I was wrong. Havana is absolutely stunning, if crumbling. But then Havana has several centuries of grand building styles, so it isn´t <em>just</em> a Spanish colonial town.</p> <p>I stayed right in the heart of Havana Vieja in what´s called a casa particular. There aren't any travellers hostels here, so casas particulares are the next best thing for the budget traveller, and believe me, my budget is tight! There has been much rennovation going on since the 1990s when Cuba switched to tourism to replace the financial lifeline was cut off by the collapse of the Soviet Union. Indeed, there was rennovation going on right across the street, the screach of the stone cutter making a siesta quite impossible. Here's a photo of me on my very own balcony...<br> <a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=551552"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/552/551552_e50c4161ce_s.jpg" align="" alt="Room with a view, Havana" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a></p> <p>...and some other local street scenes...<br> <a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=551571"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/571/551571_04b78053dc_s.jpg" align="" alt="Washing drying, Havana Vieja" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=551566"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/566/551566_675fba983b_s.jpg" align="" alt="Bicitaxi" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a></p> <p>Cuba has a very communist feel about it. So reminiscent of when I visited Prague in the 80s - beautiful old buildings falling down, and almost empty shops with barely a dozen different items available for sale, just one lone sample of each displayed on a dusty shelf. Some items are scarce. I saw a crowd form in a street outside a shop that presumably had just got in a supply of electric blender, as people were coming away clutching their new purchases. On the plus side though, not a MacDonalds, KFC or Burger King in sight. Hooray!</p> <p>Back to the buildings. Here are some magnificent examples of Colonial, Fin de Siecle, Art Deco and Neo Classical styles. I found out what Neo Classical means: the building is not nearly as old as it looks. </p> <p><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=551621"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/621/551621_c1dd436b7d_s.jpg" align="" alt="Plaza San Sebastian, Havana" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=551622"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/622/551622_9e7b28cde2_s.jpg" align="" alt="Cathedral" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=551623"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/623/551623_ac3733ea5a_s.jpg" align="" alt="Bacardi Building" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=551585"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/585/551585_1c80157812_s.jpg" align="" alt="Capitolio" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a></p> <p>The Barcardi building looks like a advertising agency with all the motorbikes parked outside, but I am sure they are not courier bikes!</p> <p>The Capitol is packed full of Italian stucco and marble, and French light fittings. Equally, if not more impressive as the Capitol on Washington DC, though apparently it is also modelled on Versailles and St Peters, Rome.</p> <p><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=551654"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/654/551654_c4d034093c_s.jpg" align="" alt="Senate" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a></p> <p>Other famous sights on the streets of Havana are classic, pre-revolutionary, American cars. Here's an action-shot of one passing the Railway Station, although you are more likley to see Ladas!</p> <p><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=551664"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/664/551664_2e86e6494b_s.jpg" align="" alt="Classic American car" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a></p> <p>That's probably enough for this blog!</p> <p>Chris </p> <p> <small> <a href="http://chrishurling.blog.co.uk/2006/05/11/our_man_in_havana~792786/#comments">Comments</a> </small> </p>http://chrishurling.blog.co.uk/2006/05/11/our_man_in_havana~792786/#commentshttp://chrishurling.blog.co.uk/2006/05/05/wear_outs~778972/tag:chrishurling.blog.co.uk,2006-05-05:/2006/05/05/wear_outs~778972/Fri, 05 May 2006 23:31:16 +0200 <p>That's a new term from the US. It means people who sap your energy dry, perhaps because they may be too loud, have nothing worth saying, or just plain self centred. This hotel (Westin Spa and Resort) in Puerto Vallarta Marina is full of them!</p> <p><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=524569"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/569/524569_d42254076d_s.jpg" align="" alt="Coconut cocktail" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=527498"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/498/527498_7085634d38_s.jpg" align="" alt="Shaun by the pool" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a></p> <p>The hotel is actually a very lovely beach hotel, with swimming pools exclusively for adults, and a chic looking bar on the beach with white divans to recline on. I do remember Clare, Julee and I went to a sister bar in Miami and decided that the people <em>there</em> were not quite "us".</p> <p><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=524567"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/567/524567_84ff549f25_s.jpg" align="" alt="Puerto Vallarta, view from room" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=524568"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/568/524568_b18f995348_s.jpg" align="" alt="Shaunie in our jacuzzi" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a></p> <p>The hotel is free! Courtesy of Shaun´s points scheme. However, just a sandwich and a drink wipes out my daily budget! Shaun´s card comes to the rescue there too. It seems to cause staff to doth their cap and bow and scrape even lower, and breakfast and early evening drinks and canapes are free! Good nosh, and good Californian fizz too. The only problem with the free cocktail (two) hour is that you have to suffer the conversation, if you can call it that of wealthy Americans. "I have a black American Express and I can do <em>what I want</em>"! The other talk is about how many condominiums they visited and how much they are paying for it, or how much the women have spent on jewellery that day. The other downside of the hotel is that you have to avoid all loby (it is an American hotel) staff, or else the will try to wear you down into attending a Time Share presentation. </p> <p>The nearby marina is full of expensive looking yachts with US registrations, and plenty of Stars and Stripes flying if you weren't quite sure who has the money. I think that probably makes Puerto Vallarta more like a US version of Marbella than Benidorm. Mexico has been described as a suburb of California, with every US fast food chain you can imagine, and roly poly people too. You have to run the guantlet of touts try to sell you sea fishing trips. Aggh...with lines like "where's your wife?", to which I replied, I don't have one but my boyfriend is right here" puting my arm round Sahun, who played along with the game. That stopped their super slick sales pitch! </p> <p><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=524570"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/570/524570_047d7df4ed_s.jpg" align="" alt="Nearby marina" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=527513"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/513/527513_1860b1f8f8_s.jpg" align="" alt="Sea fishing poster!!!" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a></p> <p>Why did we come to Puerto Vallarta? Neither of us would go again. Perhaps it was the weather, which at this time of year is fantastic, blue skies every day, and a comfortable 30 degrees. Perhaps is was the gay scene here. The most famous club, Paco Paco, is clearly past its sell-by date. We <em>did</em> find the super cool Mañana where the beautiful sip cocktails and dance under the stars, in a colonnaded courtyard with palm trees and a pool. There were plenty of Californian muscle marys there.</p> <p>So, here I am at Mexico City, the third time I have arrived on a long distance bus at the bus Terminal del Norte. Good public transport here. Imagine puting a Metro station right outside the bus station, which is on the same line at the station for the airport! Less than ten pence for the ride too. </p> <p>Next stop Habana, Cuba. There I should be Gringo free at last, as they are not allowed to go there by their country. </p> <p>Nos vemos en la web desde Cuba!</p> <p>Chris xxx </p> <p> <small> <a href="http://chrishurling.blog.co.uk/2006/05/05/wear_outs~778972/#comments">Comments</a> </small> </p>http://chrishurling.blog.co.uk/2006/05/05/wear_outs~778972/#commentshttp://chrishurling.blog.co.uk/2006/05/04/title~776055/tag:chrishurling.blog.co.uk,2006-05-04:/2006/05/04/title~776055/Thu, 04 May 2006 18:48:50 +0200 <p>We laid low on Monday as it was May 1st, the day of huge demonstration in the US by illegal immigrants against potential new laws there to make them criminals. Shaun was worried that we might be caught up in any anti-gringo dissent. We did venture to a local cafe for breakfast to plan the next day though. Here is Shaun with his head in the guide book...and later tucking into a meat feast at a Uraguayan Parilla in the cool neighbourhood, Colonia Condesa.</p> <p><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=522795"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/795/522795_a24cc964e2_s.jpg" align="" alt="Shaun at breakfast" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=527562"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/562/527562_ca2d1af171_s.jpg" align="" alt="Meat feast at a Uraguyan Parilla" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a></p> <p>Tuesday was our last day, so much to do (not about nothing!), so I managed by a combination of enticement and trickery to get Shaun up at 6.30am to make it to the Terminal del Norte to catch a bus 45 mins out of town to the Aztec pyramids at Teotihuacan. It was worth the early start as we arrived at 9am - only two others were there already. We didn't beat the hawkers there though selling gaudy mass-produced trinkets. </p> <p><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=522796"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/796/522796_110fbc556b_s.jpg" align="" alt="Temple of the Sun, Teotihuacan" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a></p> <p>The size and height of the pyramids is truly stunning. I would like to say "awsome", but that adjective has been overused and abused by so many Norte Americanos. The size of the site is immense, apparently home to some 200,000 people in its heyday. I had thought that it was an Aztec city, but they simply took it over after it had long been abandonned by previous inhabitants. They named one huge avenue the Avenue of the Dead, where they believed gods to be burried...</p> <p><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=522111"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/111/522111_e071418fc0_s.jpg" align="" alt="Shaun on the Avenue of the dead" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a></p> <p>We left soon before midday, just as the place was filling up with tour groups and school parties. There was literally standing room only on the bus back - you can imagine how that went down with Shaun! Luckily, a woman and her offspring got off the bus at the next village, and we could nap on our way back to the city.</p> <p>Continuing the theme that day of doing things on the cheap, we took the metro to Chapultepec park and ate tacos for lunch at just over a quid each.</p> <p><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=522793"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/793/522793_7a7f6cf8d4_s.jpg" align="" alt="Shaunie eating tacos" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a></p> <p>We both had different priorities for what sights we wanted to see the rest of the day, so we split, me taking the metro into the Centro Historico to see Diego Rivera murals. The building was closed for rennovation! Here is a glimpse of the inside of the building though. I hurried over to the Palacio Nacional, where there are a few murals by Diego. </p> <p><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=522789"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/789/522789_d1d726099a_s.jpg" align="" alt="Diego Rivera Mural" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=522791"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/791/522791_166bd4a053_s.jpg" align="" alt="Diego Rivera Mural" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a></p> <p>The murals are stunning, depicting all manner of historical stories about Mexico. Here is his wife Frida Kahlo in one of the murals. </p> <p><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=522792"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/792/522792_bc9985006b_s.jpg" align="" alt="Diego Rivera Mural with Freda Kahlo" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a></p> <p>Back at the hotel we caught up - Shaun had been to the excellent Museo de Anthrologia. </p> <p><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=522798"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/798/522798_75088cdfec_s.jpg" align="" alt="Museo Antropologia" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=522799"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/799/522799_93f865761c_s.jpg" align="" alt="Museo Antropologia" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a></p> <p>Our last night in Mexico City, so we headed to the trendy and gay friendly neighbourhood of Colonia Condesa for dinner. This area has such a Parisien feel about it, with restaurants packed full of locals, gay and straight. We found an excellent fish restaurant. Fabulous food, half the price you would pay in more touristy areas such as Zona Rosa, relaxed atmosphere and, that night, a jazz band playing. I had the best view of the drummer (or do you call him percusionist?) who was gorgeous, and I would have liked him for desert. Certainly not Mexican looking, Shaun reckoned he could be from Cuba. Yum! I am off there this weekend.</p> <p>Before Cuba, a few days of R&R at the Pacific coast resort of Puerto Vallarta. I have really enjoyed Mexico City. It has a "great capital city" feel about it, wide boulevards like Paris, and wonderful Spanish baroque architecture, dare I say, so very similar to Madrid?! If you go, try to find a boutique hotel or hostal in Colonia Condesa.</p> <p>Bye,</p> <p>Chris x</p> <p> <small> <a href="http://chrishurling.blog.co.uk/2006/05/04/title~776055/#comments">Comments</a> </small> </p>http://chrishurling.blog.co.uk/2006/05/04/title~776055/#commentshttp://chrishurling.blog.co.uk/2006/05/01/title~768714/tag:chrishurling.blog.co.uk,2006-05-01:/2006/05/01/title~768714/Mon, 01 May 2006 16:49:41 +0200 <p>I like Mexico City. Even Shaunie has given it the accolade of "I haven't seen anything really scary here, like Sao Paolo". We haven't been out of the city yet past the shanty towns though. The centre has wide Parisien style boulevards, such as Paseo de la Reforma, and many parks. We have a small park within a few minutes walk from us, packed full of modern sculptures...</p> <p><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=516370"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/370/516370_630bda825b_s.jpg" align="" alt="Park sculpture" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=516373"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/373/516373_dbbb56941d_s.jpg" align="" alt="Paseo Reforma" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a></p> <p>...and just ten minutes walk from our hotel is the much larger Bosque Chapultepec, equivalent to Hyde Park, packed full of locals at the weekend. All ends of the social scale are catered for, including a polo match for the extremely wealthy! There is Castillo Chapultepec, which we took a tourist "train" up the top to see views over the city.</p> <p><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=516371"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/371/516371_28107c5d01_s.jpg" align="" alt="Mexican Flag and Jacarunda trees" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=516372"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/372/516372_3938e0404d_s.jpg" align="" alt="Views from Castillo Chapultepec" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a></p> <p>Indeed, Mexico City seems far less polluted than every other Latinamerican capital I've visited. Shaun is feeling the effects of the high altitude here, so we have not yet ventured to any of the late night gay venues. I wanted to see a ballet version of Carmen, but it was sold out. Must have been good. Instead we did go last night to the Teatro Bellas Artes for Ballet Folklorico de Mexico. It was excellent and very colourful, although only one dance in contemporary in style. But the main attraction has got to be the theatre itself; with one of the most stunningly beautiful interiors I have seen. Art Deco style, and recently rennovated. My photos don't do justice to the amazing Tiffany safety curtain, wonderful lighting, and ceilings...</p> <p><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=516400"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/400/516400_fcd26632b4_s.jpg" align="" alt="Inside Bellas Artes" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=516407"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/407/516407_1db0fec7df_s.jpg" align="" alt="Tiffany curtain, Bellas Artes" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=516408"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/408/516408_4ebf42192a_s.jpg" align="" alt="Glass ceiling, Bellas Artes" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=516409"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/409/516409_10e69a9687_s.jpg" align="" alt="Ballet Folklorico de Mexico" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=516410"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/410/516410_80ecbbebfc_s.jpg" align="" alt="Mexican dance" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a></p> <p>Shaun is infatuated with Mexico's green and white VW Beetle taxis! The front passenger seat is removed to allow easy access into the otherwise cramped back! All guide books tell you not to flag these in the street, as tourists have been robbed. I hope these are not famous last words, but we have been OK so far, and they are cheap.</p> <p><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=516375"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/375/516375_49fb3b08c3_s.jpg" align="" alt="A Mexico City Taxi!" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a></p> <p>Getting Shaun to take the bus is not quite such an easy matter, but we did on Sunday to an area in the south of the city called Coyoacan, home to Freda Kahlo, and Trotsky's hideaway before Stalin's henchman killed him with the famous ice pick! The Freda Kahlo museum is OK, but not a patch on the exhibition last year at Tate Modern. Oh, there are markets in the small squares, and free shows...</p> <p><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=516376"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/376/516376_309d8b6652_s.jpg" align="" alt="Shaun travelling by bus" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a></p> <p>That's it up to date,</p> <p>Have a relaxing bank holiday!</p> <p>Love from Chris x</p> <p> <small> <a href="http://chrishurling.blog.co.uk/2006/05/01/title~768714/#comments">Comments</a> </small> </p>http://chrishurling.blog.co.uk/2006/05/01/title~768714/#commentshttp://chrishurling.blog.co.uk/2006/05/01/title~768634/tag:chrishurling.blog.co.uk,2006-05-01:/2006/05/01/title~768634/Mon, 01 May 2006 16:09:19 +0200 <p>I checked into the W Hotel in Mexico City, a hip, cool and trendy hangout for Mexico City's media set, courtesy of my dear Shaun. One night here is an entire week's budget for me! The first suite I was shown was gorgeous, with a hammock in the window area. Only one problem - there was just one bed, admittedly an enormous kingsize, however, Shaun doesn't like sharing a bed with me, as apparently I thrash around and take up too much room! Our suite is now a few floors lower, on the 17th, with amazing views from the hammock in the bathroom area...</p> <p><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=516309"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/309/516309_e8220276bf_s.jpg" align="" alt="Bathroom view of Mexico City" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=522096"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/096/522096_97ab23c3c4_s.jpg" align="" alt="W Hotel room" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a></p> <p>Time enough to surprise Shaun by meeting him at the airport. The concierge recommended me to take the hotel limo, at the cost of 300 pesos, or $30! I said I was quite used to travelling on the Tube in the rush hour, and asked for directions to the nearest station. The journey, about 50 mins across the city, cost just 2 pesos, barely ten pence! The metro is pretty new, and the stations and interchanges are built to cope with huge numbers of people - it is said that nearly 18 million people live in the DF area!</p> <p>I was struck by the lack of racial diversity in this huge city - something we take for granted in London. The guide book says that 30% of Mexicans are from indigenous descent, 60% mixed indigenous and Spanish, and the rest mainly pure Spanish. There is a distinct lack of eye candy here, and I like guys with darker skins! Back in Mante and Victoria, I was horrified to see short men with bodies like a huge inflatable ball, and short arms and legs. It is no different here. Too much Gringo fast food and full fat Coca Cola, on top of the already high carb and high fat Mexican tacos?</p> <p>It is lovely to see Shaun again, and we celebrated with an excellent dry martini in the cool hotel bar, full of the Mexico City jet-set.</p> <p><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=527550"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/550/527550_7b96362318_s.jpg" align="" alt="Bar in W Hotel, Mexico" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=527551"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/551/527551_ef2c097b84_s.jpg" align="" alt="Just one Martini" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a></p> <p>An early night.</p> <p> <small> <a href="http://chrishurling.blog.co.uk/2006/05/01/title~768634/#comments">Comments</a> </small> </p>http://chrishurling.blog.co.uk/2006/05/01/title~768634/#commentshttp://chrishurling.blog.co.uk/2006/05/01/title~768520/tag:chrishurling.blog.co.uk,2006-05-01:/2006/05/01/title~768520/Mon, 01 May 2006 15:08:24 +0200 <p>Thursday was my last day in Cuidad Victoria, so I busied myself with things like laundry. Carlos is the sort of person who can sleep 12 hours a day, but after 6 or 7 hours I am rested enough and want to get on with the day! The lady was late arriving to open the lavanderia - I was waiting outside. Just as in London, the "weekend" starts on Thursday, so I was promised a fun night at one of the two gay venues in Victoria. Before that, we had a late lunch and a siesta.</p> <p><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=516275"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/275/516275_ea1b19b4f5_s.jpg" align="" alt="Tacos in Victoria" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a></p> <p>The gay scene in small town Mexico is just as small as in the UK. Everyone knew each other, and judging from the numbers, the weekend is probably limited to just Friday and Saturday. The second place we went to was closed! We headed to the bus station and I changed my ticket for an earlier bus leaving at 1am for San Luis Potosi. So I said goodbye to Carlos and settled down to a short night's sleep.</p> <p>I had wanted to visit at least one city in an area of Mexico known as the Colonial Heartland. San Luis Potosi happens to be half way between Cd Victoria and Mexico DF (Distrito Federal). The bus arrived on time at 6am, so I read my book at the bus station and waiting for sunrise.</p> <p><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=516276"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/276/516276_85910add35_s.jpg" align="" alt="Sunrise over San Luis Potosi" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=516277"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/277/516277_f81e2d00c4_s.jpg" align="" alt="Sunrise over San Luis Potosi" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a></p> <p>I just love wandering around a city at sunrise, as it gradually comes to life. Streets being swept, office workers heading for their usual cafe for coffee before work (and thankfully, not a Starbucks in sight), vans making deliveries, and smells like bread baking! Sadly, there are also whole families who have had to sleep on the street, but unfortunately we have become all too used to people sleeping rough in London.</p> <p><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=516279"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/279/516279_3c2124abc6_s.jpg" align="" alt="Baroque church San Francisco" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=516281"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/281/516281_8bd059a0ea_s.jpg" align="" alt="San Luis Potosi" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a></p> <p>San Luis Potosi is a university city, with a beautiful colonial centre. Past wealth came from silver mining, which is now supplemented by modern industry. I liked the city very much. However, it was approaching midday, and time to catch a bus for the five hour journey to Mexico DF.</p> <p>Chris </p> <p> <small> <a href="http://chrishurling.blog.co.uk/2006/05/01/title~768520/#comments">Comments</a> </small> </p>http://chrishurling.blog.co.uk/2006/05/01/title~768520/#commentshttp://chrishurling.blog.co.uk/2006/05/01/hob_nobbing_with_mexico_s_wealthy_and_be~767483/tag:chrishurling.blog.co.uk,2006-05-01:/2006/05/01/hob_nobbing_with_mexico_s_wealthy_and_be~767483/Mon, 01 May 2006 01:43:39 +0200 <p><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=515027"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/027/515027_145e3c99f9_s.jpg" align="" alt="Museum, Cuidad Victoria" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a><br> <em>(Museo Ciencia, Cuidad Victoria)</em></p> <p>Carlos had to "work" on Tuesday. This meant driving to the state capital, Cuidad Victoria for a day's conference on a forthcoming theatre festival. I small-talked with other delegates during the welcome coffee, then had a look around the museum. Now, Carlos had loaned me a smart shirt for the lunch, which I was also invited to, in the posh restaurant at the museum.</p> <p>I was distinctly underdressed! There were even special stands for handbags, and enough Gucci shoes to make even Imelda Marcos jealous! </p> <p><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=515028"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/028/515028_fb34eac847_s.jpg" align="" alt="Handbag stands" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=516340"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/340/516340_977556ad1a_s.jpg" align="" alt="Mercifully short speech from the Governor" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a></p> <p>Lunch was very late in starting...I think well after 3pm, by which time I was getting a little sloshed on a rather good bottle of Mexican Chenin Blanc from Baja California). We were waiting on the State Governor to arrive, with his very beautiful wife! I counted no fewer than six television cameras. The speeches were <em>before</em> lunch, so by the time lunch did arrive, the salad was a little limp, and what would have been excellent fillet beef, clearly overcooked. I bet the chef was fuming! Everyone listened very politely on my table to me talking in Spanish. I can now small-talk in Spanish and hob-nob with Mexico's wealthy and beautiful!</p> <p>After lunch, the Governor the did the rounds of the tables, saying something to me about watching myself with all these beautiful women. Little did he know that I only had eyes for the restaurant owner, who I am sure is family!</p> <p><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=515030"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/030/515030_14a1fb42f2_s.jpg" align="" alt="Mmm, scrummy!" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a></p> <p>After draining the bottle of wine, and the governor leaving with his entourage, I decided to leave aswell and go back to Carlos' house for a siesta!</p> <p>Chris zzzzzzzzz </p> <p> <small> <a href="http://chrishurling.blog.co.uk/2006/05/01/hob_nobbing_with_mexico_s_wealthy_and_be~767483/#comments">Comments</a> </small> </p>http://chrishurling.blog.co.uk/2006/05/01/hob_nobbing_with_mexico_s_wealthy_and_be~767483/#commentshttp://chrishurling.blog.co.uk/2006/04/30/title~767365/tag:chrishurling.blog.co.uk,2006-04-30:/2006/04/30/title~767365/Sun, 30 Apr 2006 23:38:21 +0200 <p><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=514995"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/995/514995_f5f4075efe_m.jpg" align="" alt="Lush Sierra Gorda" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a><br> <em>(The lush and tropical Sierra Gorda, Mexico)</em></p> <p>Well, I wanted to get off the beaten track, and I certainly succeeded! The luxy Primera Clase bus from Palaneque got into Mexico City's Terminal del Norte only a half hour late at 9.30am. It had been like travelling in a fridge, withy fierce AC and with no blankets available, I slept in my stormcheeter with hood pulled up! At the bus terminal I managed to find a bus leaving at 10 to my destination, Cuidad Valles, somewhere 10 hours northeast of Mexico City. That gave me just 20 mins to phone Carlos and grab some breakfast.</p> <p>The bus to Cd Valles was Segunda Clase, so very cheap - a quarter of the price of the bus the night before. Naturally, I was the only foreigner on the bus. There was a great variety of scenery. Firstly we had a good view of some of the shanty towns of Mexico City, some of the worst I have seen in Latin America. We sped along the motorway across great grain growing plains, then started to climb into the mountains. The bus stopped at every mountain town and village, for example, picking up people who had been to market in Jacala, crates of produced being loaded in with the luggage (no live chickens though). The vegetation was very lush and tropical, the grass looked so green and tender that you could image how good the cattle would taste!</p> <p>I must admit that four or so hours along precipitious mountain roads with hairpin bends became a little tedious. Then we descended into a valley, where I was asked to close the window. Why, I asked, as it was getting hotter and hotter. For the airconditioning was the answer! My, we needed it. One bus had clearly found the heat too much and was on fire. We stopped to take on even more passengers, by then no even standing room only!</p> <p>My guidebook has just four lines on Cuidad Valles. Carlos met me off the bus, which was only an hour late, and we drove in his car to a spa hotel a few kms outside the town at a place called Taninul. The hotel was almost empty, it just being after Semana Santa. </p> <p><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=514973"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/973/514973_68fad088e9_s.jpg" align="" alt="By the rotten egg smelling pool!" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=514966"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/966/514966_f12d9d7d84_s.jpg" align="" alt="Who is this hunk?!" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a></p> <p>It was great to see Carlos, who I had met on a long distance bus in Peru back in January. He had been holidaying with Ivan, who I visited in his home town of Medellin, Columbia. It was good to relax after two days on the road, even though the spa water is incredibly sulphurous and stinking of rotten eggs! A slimey bottom and green algae floating on top. It is supposed to be good for your health! It will at least stop my mosquito bites festering.</p> <p>Now, Carlos has just finished his masters degree, so had a spare week before hopefully, starting work. My guidebook says little about the area we were in, the Sierra Gorda, but the mountains are a great weekend favourite for the locals. We back-tracked slightly along the road I had taken by bus, to a village called Xilitla, and a surealist folly built by an English guy called Edward James back in the 40s. </p> <p><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=514974"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/974/514974_a74fc7942f_s.jpg" align="" alt="Waterfall, Xititla" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=514975"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/975/514975_bb0b19f81c_s.jpg" align="" alt="Xilitla" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=514976"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/976/514976_a6c453b365_s.jpg" align="" alt="Xilitla" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a></p> <p>There was a photo shoot, going on whilst we were there, perhaps for a fashion magazine.</p> <p><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=514978"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/978/514978_ad97147bfc_s.jpg" align="" alt="Photo shoot, Xilitla" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a></p> <p>Evening drew on, and the lush mountain scenery with dramatic limestone escarpments were bathed in that warming late evening glow. </p> <p><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=514979"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/979/514979_5c0299d8dc_s.jpg" align="" alt="Sierra Gorda" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=514980"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/980/514980_9187cc9543_s.jpg" align="" alt="Returning from Xilitla" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a></p> <p>Carlos was tired, so I drove the last 100kms to his home town of Mante. We arrived in one piece, having passed several roadside fires raging, presumably, after careless motorists had thrown lighted cigarettes out of the window. Mante is not a pretty town, and incredibly hot and airless. It does have an excellent fish restauarant where I had the most delicious crab meat cooked with peppers and, I think, bayleaves. </p> <p>When I re-read my guide book later, I realised that I had actually visited part of a region mentioned in my book as off the beaten track, but with nearny villages the site of 18th century missions. </p> <p>Tick VG. </p> <p> <small> <a href="http://chrishurling.blog.co.uk/2006/04/30/title~767365/#comments">Comments</a> </small> </p>http://chrishurling.blog.co.uk/2006/04/30/title~767365/#commentshttp://chrishurling.blog.co.uk/2006/04/23/another_ancient_mayan_citiy~748464/tag:chrishurling.blog.co.uk,2006-04-22:/2006/04/23/another_ancient_mayan_citiy~748464/Sun, 23 Apr 2006 00:55:58 +0200 <p><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=498003"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/003/498003_f4766cfb34_m.jpg" align="" alt="Palace, Palenque" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a><br> <em>(The Palace, Palenque, Mexico)</em></p> <p>The drive to the Guatemala-Mexican border was largely uneventful, and the scenery not terribly exciting; much slash and burn farming going on. The journey was on dirt roads, but I managed to catch up on my sleep. The Guatemalan immigration office was as basic as they come...<br> <a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=497996"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/996/497996_ff945ab87d_s.jpg" align="" alt="Leaving Guatemala" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a></p> <p>...the tranfer to boats for a short river trip was fun...</p> <p><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=497997"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/997/497997_b3e5be9fc0_s.jpg" align="" alt="River crossing to Mexico" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a></p> <p>...and the formalities on the Mexican side were swift. No bag searching with sniffer dogs as with the Panama-Costa Rica, and Costa Rica-Nicaragua borders. </p> <p>The colectivo was an hour late arriving at Palenque, and we also lost an hour crossing into the Mexico time zone, so I collected my bus ticket, dumped my backpack at the bus station and took a colectivo to the Palenque Mayan ruins. Yes more ruins! The Mayans were pretty successful until the Spanish arrived. Oh, I did pat myself on the back when the ticket I had bought over the phone was indeed showing on the computer!</p> <p>Palenque is more commercial, and far busier than Tikal. It is also incredibly hot! I drank 1.5 litres of water and have not needed to pee yet! In many ways though, Palenque is even more spectacular than Tikal...</p> <p><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=498000"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/000/498000_d8dade8342_s.jpg" align="" alt="Palenque" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=498001"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/001/498001_81e8b5e092_s.jpg" align="" alt="Palenque" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a><br> <a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=497988"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/988/497988_412b570156_s.jpg" align="" alt="Palenque" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=498013"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/013/498013_0a642f636f_s.jpg" align="" alt="Palenque" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a></p> <p>...it seems the Mayans didn't have round arches...</p> <p><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=498014"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/014/498014_59526cc757_s.jpg" align="" alt="Palenque" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a></p> <p>...here's one with me to prove I was there...</p> <p><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=497998"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/998/497998_3fa5c96615_s.jpg" align="" alt="Me at Paleque" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a></p> <p>...my spare tyre is nothing next to these people, I guess from the US, at the border crossing earlier!</p> <p><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=497999"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/999/497999_0923356a69_s.jpg" align="" alt="Bigger guts than me!" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a></p> <p>So, I am now in Mexico, in less than 3 weeks after leaving Columbia. If I was doing this journey again, in some ways I would start from Mexico and Central America. It is much more geared up for Western tourists and therefore easier. On the other hand, I am so pleased that I did spend the time I did in South America - it may be harder in some ways for travelling, but so more rewarding in many ways. </p> <p>I now have 22 hours on two buses from here to Cuidad Valles, north of Mexico City, to meet Carlos.</p> <p>Hope you had a more fun Saturday night than me!</p> <p>Chris x </p> <p> <small> <a href="http://chrishurling.blog.co.uk/2006/04/23/another_ancient_mayan_citiy~748464/#comments">Comments</a> </small> </p>http://chrishurling.blog.co.uk/2006/04/23/another_ancient_mayan_citiy~748464/#commentshttp://chrishurling.blog.co.uk/2006/04/22/a_star_wars_set_tikal~748394/tag:chrishurling.blog.co.uk,2006-04-22:/2006/04/22/a_star_wars_set_tikal~748394/Sat, 22 Apr 2006 23:59:33 +0200 <p><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=497961"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/961/497961_c56e5a0827_m.jpg" align="" alt="Temple of the Great Jaguar, Tikal" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a></p> <p>The good thing about taking the overnight bus from Guatemala City to Flores is that you arrive early enough to beat the crowd - 5am! Still feeling sleepy, I transferred from the bus to a collectivo to take us another hour to Tikal. The visitors' area at the entrance has a very relaxed feel - just three lodges, a campsite and some cheap comedors. No tacky souvenir stalls; they are hidden inside the visitors building. I had the first reservation for a hammock at the Jaguar Inn! Just as well, they fill up quickly.</p> <p>After a lazy morning keeping out of the sun and reading my book, I entered the Tikal site after lunch, as the main day tours were beginning to leave. A film crew was packing up...they had been filming a commercial, I didn't catch what for.</p> <p>I just sat and soaked up the atmosphere. Tall Mayan pyramids tower above the jungle canopy, monkeys and bird add exotic sound effects. </p> <p><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=497962"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/962/497962_88f4b05a11_s.jpg" align="" alt="North Acropolis, Tikal" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=497963"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/963/497963_7cc5c8ec61_s.jpg" align="" alt="Temple of the Great Jaguar, Tikal" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a></p> <p>I am not sure which pyramid was used to film part of Return of the Jedi, and to be honest I have now forgetten all the names of the pyramids! To imagine what it would have looked like 1500 years ago at it's height, you need to imagine the jungle cut back, and the buildings covered in stucco and brightly painted - cochineal pink was a favourite apparently! So essentially, a pink city, surrounded by farmland, and then jungle.</p> <p><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=497964"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/964/497964_0597b6d0c2_s.jpg" align="" alt="Tikal" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=497965"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/965/497965_d6720b6388_s.jpg" align="" alt="Stucco, Tikal" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=497966"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/966/497966_644bc165c2_s.jpg" align="" alt="Altar, Tikal" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a></p> <p>Latest evidence shows the Mayans not to be all that peace loving, with human sacrifices and almost permanent wars against other city states, although not as blood thirsty as the more northerly Aztecs. The site was abandoned in the tenth century AD, from the affects of overpopulation, exhuasted soil and drought. </p> <p>Sunset from the Mondo Perdido pyramid was spectacular, even if these photos don't do it justice. Exiting the site was rather spooky.</p> <p><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=497972"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/972/497972_2c292fe124_s.jpg" align="" alt="Sunset at Tikal" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a></p> <p>I had heard of a star-gazing tour, which would have been fab. The Mayans were keen astrologers, but there wasn't a tour that night. Instead I paid up for a sunrise tour. At 4am the next morning there was a knock at my hammock. I was already awake, as so it seemed was everyone else staying at my lodge! Our tour group was swollen by an extended family from Canada, complete with their own bus and tour guide. Howler monkeys put on a powerful dawn chorus as we walked and stumbled through the forest to torch light. Sunrise was a little disappointing - the sun must have been behind the clouds. Another group had been there since 2am on a jungle night sounds tour. All I could hear was the flapping of a plastic tarpaulin left by workers restoring part of the pyramid!</p> <p><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=497973"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/973/497973_0cafaaa821_s.jpg" align="" alt="Tiakl at sunrise" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=497975"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/975/497975_830e60de31_s.jpg" align="" alt="Tikal at sunrise" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a></p> <p>An amazing experience though, and I walked back for breakfast with a Dutch couple, just as the first day tripper coach loads arrived. That evening, I stayed in the incredibly hot Flores, ready for a 5am pickup and a 7 hour drive across the border to Palanque in Mexico. </p> <p>Chris zzzzzzzz</p> <p> <small> <a href="http://chrishurling.blog.co.uk/2006/04/22/a_star_wars_set_tikal~748394/#comments">Comments</a> </small> </p>http://chrishurling.blog.co.uk/2006/04/22/a_star_wars_set_tikal~748394/#commentshttp://chrishurling.blog.co.uk/2006/04/18/the_most_beautiful_lake_in_the_world~737775/tag:chrishurling.blog.co.uk,2006-04-18:/2006/04/18/the_most_beautiful_lake_in_the_world~737775/Tue, 18 Apr 2006 22:33:27 +0200 <p><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=488676"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/676/488676_ec8fd99ad1_s.jpg" align="" alt="Lago Atitlan" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=491341"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/341/491341_f4bbdd7c2c_s.jpg" align="" alt="Volcano by Lago Atitlan, Guatemala" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a></p> <p>That is according to Aldous Huxley. Lago Atitlan is indeed stunning, with mountains steeply rising out of an aquamarine blue lake. Formed by very large colapsing volcano. It now has it's very own volcanoes around it, adding to the majesty of the lake setting. </p> <p>I arrived to grey overcast skies. The boat crossing from the main town, Panajachel was bouncy and wet. I sat in the front row, not realising that I would share the task of holding up a piece of plastic to keep the water off! I had been warned that one of the lakeside villages, San Pedro, was a "party place". Living in London, the clubbing capital of the world, the thought of twenty something gringos getting drunk was not very appealing. I opted for San Marcos, and a lovely tranquil place called Aaculaxx, with the most amazing windows made out of recycled coloured glass, and a fabulous lake view.</p> <p><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=491356"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/356/491356_aaff078f32_s.jpg" align="" alt="Aaculaxx, San Marcos" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=491357"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/357/491357_8944c14de5_s.jpg" align="" alt="Aaculaxx, San Marcos" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=488677"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/677/488677_d998928c93_s.jpg" align="" alt="Lago Atitlan" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a></p> <p>San Marcos is very much a hippie hangout, tranquil, with no road traffic, just sandy paths between buildings. Lots of people with long tangled hair, wearing baggy clothes, and also a disproportionate number of twenty something women from the USA and Canada. No good for me! The first night a local "Italian" restaurant was showing Secrets of a Geisha, which I haven't seen. The film is beautiful, and my salad wasn't bad either. </p> <p>I awoke at 6.30am to the gorgeous smell of baking bread. The kitchen was immediately below my room! That made me feel very hungry. Breakfast was not available until 8.30 though! A very laid back place indeed. I could have done without the music though, and told the Israeli guy who had set up the speakers that I preferred to hear the birds sing!</p> <p>Morning is definitely the best time to see blue skies here, at this time of year at least. The rainy season is only one week away apparently. So, I set out to walk around the lake. At times mountaineering skills came in handy as the path disappeared - though fortunately I remembered someone telling me that the key to rock climbing is to have at least three of your feet or hands touching the surface and let your legs do most of the work. It worked! I passed through idigenous villages, where women wore traditional clothing, washed clothes on the rocks by the lakes, and men fished in tiny wooden boats.</p> <p><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=488675"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/675/488675_dc8768c498_s.jpg" align="" alt="Fishing on Lago Atitlan" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=488678"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/678/488678_98aecc74a0_s.jpg" align="" alt="Lago Atitlan" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a></p> <p>From time to time the lake path was engulfed into landsacled gardens of wealthy Guatemalan and foriegner big lakeside houses. I just walked through the gardens - the owners weren't there. Finally I came up against a new lake wall, in the garden of a hguge new house being built for a Czech guy, who was their supervising the work. Where is the path I asked as I walked into a room that is a big as my entired flat, and I think will be the kichen. I wasn't exactly shown off the premises with a shotgun, but my reception was cool. I wasn't intimidated though. I later learned that he is building this huge house for just over a hundred grand. That's only possible on the backs of the poor local people who earn less than 5 quid a day.<br> Still, some lovely tended gardens, not sure if I like the Czech's house though...</p> <p><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/389/491389_8e57196adf_s.jpg" align="" alt="Big House, Lago Atitlan" vspace="5" hspace="5"><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=488680"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/680/488680_8434ceda16_s.jpg" align="" alt="Lago Atitlan" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a></p> <p>Next back to Guatamala City for an overnight bus to Tikal for some Mayan ruins.</p> <p>Chris x </p> <p> <small> <a href="http://chrishurling.blog.co.uk/2006/04/18/the_most_beautiful_lake_in_the_world~737775/#comments">Comments</a> </small> </p>http://chrishurling.blog.co.uk/2006/04/18/the_most_beautiful_lake_in_the_world~737775/#commentshttp://chrishurling.blog.co.uk/2006/04/18/antigua_you_can_overdose_on_colonial_tow~737761/tag:chrishurling.blog.co.uk,2006-04-18:/2006/04/18/antigua_you_can_overdose_on_colonial_tow~737761/Tue, 18 Apr 2006 22:28:10 +0200 <p>The border crossing from Honduras to Guatemala could not have been easier. No long queues and the two countries immigation offices were right next to each other. Now, that is a good idea! The bus journey was incredibly hot as we sped through the valleys. Hot dry air blowing in through the windows did little to cool you. In the distance, whole hillsides were on fire. It is the end of the dry season, and perfect conditions for forest fires. We hit the end of Semama Santa holiday traffic, so the journey to Antigua took nearly 7 hours. We circuited Guatemala City, which looks hideous, with US style oversized and overhigh commercial signage.</p> <p><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=488649"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/649/488649_a6208563e6_s.jpg" align="" alt="Guatemala City" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a></p> <p>Antigua is a very beautiful Spanish colonial town, dominated by a volcano, the name of which I cannot rememmber. It was the original capital of Guatemala, but abandoned after earthquakes in favour of the Guatemala City. Antigua still has many ruined churches...</p> <p><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=488644"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/644/488644_827539bedf_s.jpg" align="" alt="Ruined church, Antigua" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=488645"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/645/488645_68fcecc735_s.jpg" align="" alt="Volcano view, Antigua" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a></p> <p>Such a beautiful town, butd over-run by tourists from North America. Not travellers, but the sort that walk into your hotel and start talking to the staff in English, not even <em>asking</em> if English is spoken, just assuming. Having so many tourists does have its advantages though, and I managed to find a copy of the Footprint guide to Central America and Mexico. I never liked the Lonely Planet guide to Central America, not only because it covers only the Yucan Penninsular of Mexico, but it is dummed down for North American college kids. </p> <p>Still, Antigua <em>is</em> a beautiful town, and as Spanish colonnaded plazas go, this is the most impressive that I have seen in Latin America....</p> <p><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=488643"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/643/488643_c4483dddb7_s.jpg" align="" alt="Colonaded Plaza, Antigua" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a></p> <p>...shame about the gringos!</p> <p>Chris </p> <p><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=488646"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/646/488646_9828554119_s.jpg" align="" alt="Ornate Church, Antigua" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=488648"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/648/488648_fb0e695bc3_s.jpg" align="" alt="Antigua" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a></p> <p> <small> <a href="http://chrishurling.blog.co.uk/2006/04/18/antigua_you_can_overdose_on_colonial_tow~737761/#comments">Comments</a> </small> </p>http://chrishurling.blog.co.uk/2006/04/18/antigua_you_can_overdose_on_colonial_tow~737761/#commentshttp://chrishurling.blog.co.uk/2006/04/15/ancient_religious_sites_and_modern_day_r~729981/tag:chrishurling.blog.co.uk,2006-04-15:/2006/04/15/ancient_religious_sites_and_modern_day_r~729981/Sat, 15 Apr 2006 18:17:23 +0200 <p><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=481753"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/753/481753_f597c55124_m.jpg" align="" alt="Chris 012" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a><br> <em>(Mayan ruins at Copan, Honduras)</em></p> <p>So, I decided to escape the Semana Santa madness and escape to the mountains and the Mayan ruins of Capan. Before I left Omoa, I finally fished out my travel insurance to check a nagging suspicion that it had expired...I was right; five days ago. Shit. A phone call to Columbus yielded no help - I should have applied to extend the policy 2 weeks before expiry and there was nothing they could do. They did refer me to a trade body. I ended up having to buy a policy from some, probably dodgy, US-based insurer. A few minutes later I had applied online and I was printing out the policy document. Relatively expensive, and limited cover, but enough I reckon to fly me back home on a stretcher with drips in my veins and a nurse to look after me! </p> <p>After a short ride in an empty chicken bus leaving Omoa, a collectivo, then 3 more hours in another chicken bus, I arrived at the very pretty mountain village of Copan. Very twee infact, and a little too gringofied. Talking of gringos, there was one in front of me on the long bus ride with too perfect a tan, trendy oriental tattoo on his oversized arm muscles, and wearing a very insincere smile. He would not stop talking at first at a Canadian couple, and when they were (to their relief) shielded by a local woman breast feeding her baby, he then bored a poor local man who spoke English. No attempt to speak Spanish of course. I felt tired and sick anyway from my tummy bug, so tried to sleep as best I could to avoid him.</p> <p><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=481679"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/679/481679_dce4fc0c91_s.jpg" align="" alt="Chris 013" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=481680"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/680/481680_3434d1c40a_s.jpg" align="" alt="Chris 001" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a></p> <p><em>(Good Friday procession in Copan, Honduras)</em></p> <p>I ended up in a brand new and therefore very clean hostal called Manzana Verde, and I have the double bed in the dorm! A long list of instructions forbades any sex. He has made it pretty clear to me that he is "family". There is also Dawn from far north Canada, who it turns out is also gay. That all came out, so to speak, after my encounter with religious fundamentalists staying at the hostal.</p> <p>Three young girls (they in their early twenties, but <em>very</em> young) joined me at lunch. One made it quite obvious that she was praying. Now, I have friends that have religious beliefs but I have never known anyone to pray before a meal publicly. Religion is a private thing surely? I could have ignored it but it was a red rag to a bull to me, especially when it turned out they are Seventh Day Adventists working at a mission in Honduras. Eek! The Canadians later thought it was highly amusing that I had spent an hour baiting religious fundamentalists. Scary people, the fanatics that is. They actually admitted, so therefore the reality is probably worse, that they grew up and live in a close Seventh Day Adventist community and went to 7th DA schools. I read that as <em>brainwashed</em>. </p> <p><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=481685"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/685/481685_bf19d9a538_s.jpg" align="" alt="Chris 008" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=481683"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/683/481683_67660112ee_s.jpg" align="" alt="Chris 004" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a> </p> <p><em>(Mayan sacrifial altar and goulish stone skull)</em></p> <p>I was interested in their views what I know are two hot political potatoes in the US - gay "marriages" and abortion, so there are worse extremists! "Marriage" is an emotive word, I prefer the term "civil union". Their church was accepting on abortion, but if you are gay, you don't have the right to have a loving sexual relationship, nor to have the important right of "next of kin", let alone inheritance and pension rights. You are a second class person basically. I am no deprogrammer and you can't argue against views based on ideology (I'm being kind here) rather than life's experiences. It is <strong><em>very</em></strong> scary that such religious fundamentalists have such influence in politics and therefore other people's human rights in the US. </p> <p>Back to why I came to Copan; the Mayan ruins. This is the first of three Mayan sites I plan to visit on the way to Mexico City, so I won't bore you with too many photos. All dates from 600AD or thereabouts. </p> <p>Here's a mayan football pitch, which was really a relogious ceromony that would sometimes end in the sacrifice of one of the players! Drastic!</p> <p><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=481682"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/682/481682_75bc6fe91f_s.jpg" align="" alt="Chris 006" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a></p> <p>Some Mayan statues and hieroglyphics...</p> <p><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=481686"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/686/481686_e94afafe35_s.jpg" align="" alt="Chris 007" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=481751"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/751/481751_2a8300068a_s.jpg" align="" alt="Chris 011" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=481752"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/752/481752_29fa4d915f_s.jpg" align="" alt="Chris 002" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a></p> <p>That's it for now. I leave the sanctity of the mountains for Antigua in Guatamala tomorrow.</p> <p>Happy Easter!</p> <p>Love from Chris </p> <p> <small> <a href="http://chrishurling.blog.co.uk/2006/04/15/ancient_religious_sites_and_modern_day_r~729981/#comments">Comments</a> </small> </p>http://chrishurling.blog.co.uk/2006/04/15/ancient_religious_sites_and_modern_day_r~729981/#commentshttp://chrishurling.blog.co.uk/2006/04/14/in_search_of_garifuna_dancing~727805/tag:chrishurling.blog.co.uk,2006-04-14:/2006/04/14/in_search_of_garifuna_dancing~727805/Fri, 14 Apr 2006 18:10:43 +0200 <p>The guide book says that 12th Aril is the date of a festival along the Caribbean coast of Honduras, commemorating the day these African peoples arrived. Sounds fun and interesting, and the "real" Central America, so Tela was our destination. I say "we", that is me, Yvon and Victor (from Costa Rica and Ecuador/US). </p> <p>Getting there was an experience of Semama Santa (Holy Week) madness, or perhaps "Hell Week" would be more descriptive. It seems that everyone in Honduras heads to the coast for this, the main holiday. Two days, 2 long-distance buses, three collectivos, plus a few taxis later we arrived at Omoa on the Honduran Caribbean coast. The jouney also included an overnight stay in Tegucigalpa, capital of Honduas, being woken at 4.20am by the loud horn of the first bus arriving, and then kept awake the dawn chorus of touts for buses and taxis shouting Ceiba, Ceiba, Ceiba! La Ceiba is the port for boats to the Bay Islands. Only way is to join them on the street at six. We finally managed to get on a bus that left at 10.30.</p> <p>"Don't come to Tela - the town is full, people are sleeping on the beach, it's not safe there!". This is what hostels told us...so a hastilly devised "plan B" took us to Omoa. Luckilly, the hostel (Roli's Place) had a cancelation so we each had our own very lovely room looking onto a lush and relaxing garden. After two days on the road, we were in need of a few beers and food...the local conch was excellent, if a bit rich. An early night.</p> <p><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=479414"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/414/479414_ccc7008b90_s.jpg" align="" alt="Chris 001" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a><br> <em>(conch dinner with Victor and Yvon at Omoa)</em></p> <p>The next morning it was lovely to be woken by a dawn chorus of birds. At 7am I wandered to the beach in search of breakfast. I was their first customer of the day! Good timing for me - a heavy rain shower fell, so I ordered some more coffee and lingered over my pancakes. </p> <p><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=479415"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/415/479415_13dbda389b_s.jpg" align="" alt="Chris 004" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=479416"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/416/479416_59ec813d9c_s.jpg" align="" alt="Chris 014" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a></p> <p>I relaxed in the garden for the rest of the day - didn't have the energy to do much else. Beautiful flowers, and humming birds busily after their nectar. There is an old fort though, built to protect the then Spanish Colony from the Brits.</p> <p><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=479443"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/443/479443_a552e3bf80_s.jpg" align="" alt="Chris 005" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=479444"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/444/479444_178de81cfb_s.jpg" align="" alt="Chris 010" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=479447"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/447/479447_5d7b5eeb12_s.jpg" align="" alt="Chris 013" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=479483"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/483/479483_dd2c397dc1_s.jpg" align="" alt="Chris 012" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a></p> <p>Victor made enquiries about the Garifuna festival and dancing. Tela is the main place for that, but that was no-go because of the Semana Santa madness. How annoying for the early Christians to decide on a moving date for their principal festival, linked to pagan ideas of the first full moon after Spring Equinox! It was clear that we were not to see the Garifuna dancing. Every hour, convoys of buses and cars arrived in Omoa with more people. </p> <p>There was no chance of sleep that night. A party on the beach pounded out Bob Marley until 3am. Then I started frequent trips to the toilet. I had some sort of a tummy bug.</p> <p><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=479418"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/418/479418_a0fa371d49_s.jpg" align="" alt="Chris 002" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a><br> <em>(puting loo paper in the loo seems strange after 7 months!)</em></p> <p>Chris <img src="/img/smilies/icon_sad.gif" alt=":(" class="middle" border="0"> </p> <p> <small> <a href="http://chrishurling.blog.co.uk/2006/04/14/in_search_of_garifuna_dancing~727805/#comments">Comments</a> </small> </p>http://chrishurling.blog.co.uk/2006/04/14/in_search_of_garifuna_dancing~727805/#commentshttp://chrishurling.blog.co.uk/2006/04/10/title~716764/tag:chrishurling.blog.co.uk,2006-04-10:/2006/04/10/title~716764/Mon, 10 Apr 2006 14:21:28 +0200 <p><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=470545"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/545/470545_f910fbf232_s.jpg" align="" alt="Chris 006" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a><br> <em>(Cathedral, Granada, Nicaragua)</em></p> <p>Panama looked like a lush country as I peeked through the curtains from the bus. Not not I could do much peeking, as I had an aisle seat, and the Nicaraguan girl next to me was very shy. So not much conversation on this trip I thought and read my book.</p> <p>The border crossing from Panama to Costa Rica was a very protracted affair. At the Panamanian side, the bus stopped and we had to take our luggage out of the bus and line it up ready, it turned out, for the sniffer dog. Next was for the border police to rummage through our luggage in turn. </p> <p>Where is our bus? I asked when I got back from the loo. Gone back to Panama was the answer! Shit! I hadn't realised, or perhaps understood that we were also changing buses, so had left my Lonely Planet and also my fleece on board. Well, I probably won't be needing my fleece anymore, but a guidebook is your bible when travelling.</p> <p>If the Panamanian dogs didn't find your drugs then the Costa Rican ones would. The whole experience was repeated at the Costa Rica side of the border crossing, except this time we were herded into a fenced compound for more sniffing and searching. </p> <p>The "new" bus had even less legroom than Richard Branson gives you in steerage on his transatlantic flights. Luckilly, I had an aisle seat so could stretch my legs. The two kids running up and down the aisle playing on their walkie talkies would just have to trip. Walkiie talkies?! I thought this was third world?! A walkie talkie was only a dream of a toy when I was a boy. I managed to get some sleep, woken occasionally as the bus groaned in what must have been second gear on narrow and twisty mountain roads in the dark. From time to time there was the smell of hot metal...was that the brakes or the clutch?</p> <p>We arrived at 7am, after 19 hours in San Jose, capital of Costa Rica, only 4 hours late. San Jose doesn't have one bus terminal, but each company has it's own depot. Nothing like making it easy for the traveller! After asking a few times, I found a company going to Managua, capital of Nicaragua, leaving at 9am. Last free seat that day. I had breakfast in a Subway whilst I waited for an internet cafe to open at 8. Yes, Subway is American, just like Costa Rica, but at least the loos are clean for teeth brushing and basic ablutions. The internet supplied me with information on hostels at my destination, Granada, just south of Managua.</p> <p><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=470550"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/550/470550_17d06acce3_s.jpg" align="" alt="Chris 010" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a><br> <em>(A touch of the Alhambra from the old Granada?) </em></p> <p>Loading the bus was like boarding an Air India flight - people had so much luggage! Some of the sacks were as big as the people themselves, and some of them were wide enough! The border crossing from Costa Rica was just as thorough as entry 18 hours earlier. No such thing as being "in transit" when you are travelling overland. The Nica border control was much more relaxed and European...the bus driver collected out passports and got them stamped. The customs guy just asked if we had anything to declare. Back on the bus, the Nica countryside looked amazing. On one side, a lake and a volcano with a small cloud resting on the crater, on the other a beautiful sunset.<br> <a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=470549"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/549/470549_1e7590dab3_s.jpg" align="" alt="Chris 009" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a><br> <em>(Arepas Nica style, with a volcano in the background)</em></p> <p>I was the only gringo looking person on the bus to Nicaragua...that is much better, I thought. I was wearing jeans because airconditioning can be fierce on long distance buses. When the AC broke down, the bus became a sweat box...I tried valliantly with a Nica guy to open the roof vent...it was stuck. It was then that I started getting called "gringo". I did explain that I was European. People were actually really friendly and when the bus finally dropped me off at Granada, they all shouted "goodbye!, buen viaje!".</p> <p><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=470546"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/546/470546_cadddc606b_s.jpg" align="" alt="Chris 003" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a><br> <em>(Retored colonial house, Granada, Nicaragua)</em><br> <a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=470547"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/547/470547_0b58693a84_s.jpg" align="" alt="Chris 004" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a><br> <em>(a restored bank?)</em></p> <p>Granada is a very pretty colonial town, but in many respects a disappointment. As I walked into a hostel called the Bearded Monkey (I should have guessed), "eek" I thought - so may white skinned young Americans. Nice looking place, but it was like a young gringo hideaway from the real Nicaragua. The town is getting a bit Disneyfied too, with a "train" taking tourists around, horse drawn carriages for the really wealthy, and the expensive restaurants packed at 6pm with middle aged white Americans having dinner, American time. Americans don't travel, they just take the US with them to wherever they go. They are not into experiencing culture. To be honest, my hostel is lovely and quiet, with mixed travellers. I do need to find the real Central America though. Later this morning I leave for the Caribbean coast of Honduras, in search of an African based festival...<br> <a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=470548"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/548/470548_1022527c34_s.jpg" align="" alt="Chris 001" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a><br> <em>(one of many bombed out buildings after the Sandinista-Contra War, backed illegaly by Regan, but when has that stopped the US bombing a country?)</em></p> <p>Nos vemos en la web,</p> <p>Chris </p> <p> <small> <a href="http://chrishurling.blog.co.uk/2006/04/10/title~716764/#comments">Comments</a> </small> </p>http://chrishurling.blog.co.uk/2006/04/10/title~716764/#commentshttp://chrishurling.blog.co.uk/2006/04/07/title~710224/tag:chrishurling.blog.co.uk,2006-04-07:/2006/04/07/title~710224/Fri, 07 Apr 2006 15:55:08 +0200 <p>Leaving Columbia after six wonderful weeks was an emotional wrench, not made any easier by Iván giving me a single rose with a very sweet little note inside. I had to read it several times to make sure that I had understood it correctly. </p> <p>Crossing the border to Panama by land is difficult. It requires two boat trips, walking through jungle, and jeeps. To add to the danger, guerillas have been pushed into these border areas. I chickened out and flew, even though flights out of Columbia are heavilly taxed and expensive by European standards. The sight of countless ships, in otherworrds I gave up counting them after 20, queuing up to go through the Panama Canal was quite a sight from the sky. </p> <p>From the ground however, Panama City is uninspiring. The old colonial city is largely falling down, although a few buildings have been rather inconguously restored. Indeed the Casco Viejo looks like a bomb site, quite literally in places, after the 1989 US invasion under the previous Bush, to oust Noriega, who the Americans had helped to bring to power in the first place. </p> <p><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=465346"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/346/465346_4c282fcf60_s.jpg" align="" alt="IMG_0296[1]" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=465347"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/347/465347_2673c825f9_s.jpg" align="" alt="IMG_0291[1]" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=465348"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/348/465348_9ad3b637ca_s.jpg" align="" alt="IMG_0301[1]" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=465349"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/349/465349_364e135037_s.jpg" align="" alt="IMG_0302[1]" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=465368"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/368/465368_c302b7b566_s.jpg" align="" alt="IMG_0305[1]" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a></p> <p>The interior of the Teatro Nacional looks pretty impressive though...</p> <p><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=465352"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/352/465352_c531084701_s.jpg" align="" alt="IMG_0290[1]" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a></p> <p>The rest of the city could be Miami. It is so like the US; high rise buildings, streets designed to be driven rather than walked, drive-in everything, oversized commercial signage, lots of very fat people, and chillingly airconditioned public buildings. </p> <p><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=465357"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/357/465357_528427bdf2_s.jpg" align="" alt="IMG_0293[1]" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a></p> <p>It is also packed with US Americans. I am staying in a very lovely hostel called Casa de Carmen in a residential area. It is the first time I have seen a dishwasher in 7 months! It is also the first time I have heard so many English speakers, whether British or American for several weeks. Weird lot those Americans. One girl this morning told me in the kitchen, that she had read that being a "fruitatarian" was the route to a healthy diet. Claimed to have read Darwin to back it up. I dredged up some O Level biology to counter this argument, for example that human dentition is designed for a diet of fruit, vegetables <em>and</em> meat. "Is dentition like your teeth?"...I was losing her...somewhere in those blond dreadlocks no doubt. </p> <p>That's enough of a rant. Back to Panama City. The Panama Canal <em>is</em> worth a visit. An amazing feat of, yes American, engineering. Finally relinquished by th US to the Panamanians in 1999. I'll spare you all the statistics, but one that was not mentioned once in the highly polished museum, was the 22,000 people died in building the canal, mainly from malaria and yellow fever. I was lucky to see two big ships squeezing through the Miraflores Locks. Sorry, the photos are a bit fuzzy as the sun was in the wrong place! </p> <p><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=465353"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/353/465353_ee483987a1_s.jpg" align="" alt="IMG_0309[1]" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=465354"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/354/465354_4976a1718b_s.jpg" align="" alt="IMG_0310[1]" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=465355"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/355/465355_a6a31fb07f_s.jpg" align="" alt="IMG_0315[1]" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a></p> <p>Back to town and the hostel in a bus even more gaily painted than in Columbia! Now I know where the old US school buses end up. The one I was on still had "Instructions to Pupils Riding the Bus". Talking of buses, I leave at noon today for San Jose, capital of Costa Rica, arriving at some un-worldly hour tomorrow morning. I did try to book straight through to Managua, Nicaragua was was told the first seat weas Sunday! Holy week starts this weekend, big holiday time in Latin America. Get me out of here - I'm British! I shall be trying to find an onwards bus to Managua in the small hours tomorrow morning.</p> <p><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=465356"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/356/465356_4af6216f45_s.jpg" align="" alt="IMG_0306[1]" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a></p> <p>By the way, apologies for being out of contact for a while. I can't access my email at the moment, and my Columbian mobile phone number doesn't work here. I shall not be contactacle by mobile until I meet Shaun on the 28th, which hopefully a new UK SIM card for me. </p> <p>That's all for now. 15 hours bus ride ahead, and not "cama" seats. I've run out of valium too!</p> <p>Chris </p> <p> <small> <a href="http://chrishurling.blog.co.uk/2006/04/07/title~710224/#comments">Comments</a> </small> </p>http://chrishurling.blog.co.uk/2006/04/07/title~710224/#commentshttp://chrishurling.blog.co.uk/2006/04/05/columbia_is_like_an_additcion_no_columbi~704782/tag:chrishurling.blog.co.uk,2006-04-05:/2006/04/05/columbia_is_like_an_additcion_no_columbi~704782/Wed, 05 Apr 2006 16:55:00 +0200 <p><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=461670"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/670/461670_08b9724dd7_s.jpg" align="" alt="Chris 004" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a><br> <em>(The national flower of Columbia)</em></p> <p>These are my last few hours in Columbia. I am back in Medellin visiting Ivan, and have some time to reflect on the last 6 weeks. Indeed, I have been thinking about my experiences and time in this country for a while.</p> <p>I am so pleased that I met Guillo and Norma in the jungle lodge near Leticia back in November, and Iván on the bus in Peru - if not, I wouldn't have come! </p> <p><a href="http://data1.blog.de/blog/c/chrishurling/img/Chris-009.jpg" title="Two queens"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/blog/c/chrishurling/img/Chris-009_small.jpg" border="0" alt="Two queens"></a><br> <em>(meeting Guillo and Norma)</em></p> <p>Yes, there are still problems with guerillas, but the government has pushed them far into the jungle and border areas with Ecuador and Venezuela. Paramilitaries are giving up their guns in 100s per day under the amnesty. I have felt a lot more safe here than for example Brazil, Peru and Ecuador, where Western travellers and tourists flock in their millions. There are social problems here, with a lot of poverty, illiteracy, and poor distribution of the country's wealth, but people are <em>happy</em>.</p> <p>Columbians are so genuinely friendly, welcoming and hospitable people. I have never felt more welcome or "at home" in a foreign country. I just wish my Spanish was better! Even with my poor (but improving) Spanish, people are patient and try to understand me. And yes, the men here are gorgeous, and there is a mutual attraction!</p> <p>Columbia is the hidden secret of South America. It has everything from mountains to tropical beaches, jungle to lush plantations, ancient ruins to cosmopolitan cities. So, what are my highlights of Columbia? Here are a few photos...<br> <a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=461766"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/766/461766_ef7ee56287_s.jpg" align="" alt="Chris 018" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a><br> <em>(Botero sculpture, Medellin)</em><br> <a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=461768"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/768/461768_2e746cbd4a_s.jpg" align="" alt="Chris 019" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a><br> <em>(shopping by scooter, Medellin)</em><br> <a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=461769"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/769/461769_75a1e9b21d_s.jpg" align="" alt="Chris 020" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a><br> <em>(Wax Palms in the Valle de Cocora)</em><br> <a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=450736"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/736/450736_248831fad3_s.jpg" align="" alt="Chris 031" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a><br> <em>(The "Cuidad Blanca" of Popayan)</em><br> <a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=423676"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/676/423676_8d83acfa74_s.jpg" align="" alt="Chris 020" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a><br> <em>(white sands and coconut palms at the Parque Tayrona)</em><br> <a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=421527"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/527/421527_fcf9ba3149_s.jpg" align="" alt="Chris 010" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a><br> <em>(La Cuidad Perdida - the Lost City)</em><br> <a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=433069"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/069/433069_9c148814d1_s.jpg" align="" alt="Chris 029" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a><br> <em>( A Columbian "chicken bus")</em><br> <a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=401062"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/062/401062_c48b51d215_s.jpg" align="" alt="leo 009" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a><br> <em>(sunsets at Taganga on the Caribbean coast)</em><br> <a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=393573"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/573/393573_84d69fe785_s.jpg" align="" alt="Chris 009" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a><br> <em>(Colonial balconied buildings in Cartagena)</em><br> <a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=391795"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/795/391795_22f76c9ddf_s.jpg" align="" alt="Chris 018" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a><br> <em>(Baranquilla carnival)</em><br> <a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=379633"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/633/379633_9a8cfca049_s.jpg" align="" alt="Chris 003" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a><br> (La Candalaria, Bogotá)</p> <p>If this doesn't make you want to visit Columbia, I don't know what will! I shall be coming back. I'm quite emotional after writing this.</p> <p>Next stop for me is Panama City in a three and a half week dash to meet Shaun in Mexico City on the 28th.</p> <p>My love goes to Columbia, it's people, and the friends I have made there,</p> <p>Chris x</p> <p> <small> <a href="http://chrishurling.blog.co.uk/2006/04/05/columbia_is_like_an_additcion_no_columbi~704782/#comments">Comments</a> </small> </p>http://chrishurling.blog.co.uk/2006/04/05/columbia_is_like_an_additcion_no_columbi~704782/#commentshttp://chrishurling.blog.co.uk/2006/03/30/columbia_is_like_an_addiction_no_it_is_a~686576/tag:chrishurling.blog.co.uk,2006-03-30:/2006/03/30/columbia_is_like_an_addiction_no_it_is_a~686576/Thu, 30 Mar 2006 18:15:36 +0200 <p><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=450773"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/773/450773_88b272a45c_m.jpg" align="" alt="Chris new 004" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a></p> <p>I had lost a day by having to rest up in Popayan. When having to choose between visiting Tierradentro and San Agustin in south Columbia, everyone I have met said Tierradentro is the most spectacular. So, by late morning on Tuesday I was bumping along a mountain road through beautiful lush countryside on the 5 hour bus ride from Popayan to a small village called San Andres.</p> <p><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=457946"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/946/457946_2e789c8194_s.jpg" align="" alt="Chris" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a></p> <p>I had been promised a chicken bus, but there were no chickens, just locals and several boys with baskets of queso, oh, and a milk urn. Just before the village the bus stopped and I saw Hospedaje Lucerna and remembered that it was in my guide book. Basic, but at under 2 quid a night you can't complain, especially with hot water. I went for a quick walk into the village, where there is a lovely little thatched church. Oh, the hospidaje has a nice garden and serves fresh orange juice.</p> <p><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=450774"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/774/450774_e0abf526f0_s.jpg" align="" alt="Chris new 020" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=450775"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/775/450775_33a5be11ba_s.jpg" align="" alt="Chris new 024" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a></p> <p>Dinner that night was basically what food a local house had - eggs, beans, rice and a bit of salad with juice for just over 50 pence. Next day I was up early for a wonderful 3 hour circuit of the burial chamber sites dotted in the area around San Andres. I was the only visitor that morning...a guy opening up the second site took this photo of me crossing a bridge. The second photo has San Andres is of San Andres.</p> <p><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=450785"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/785/450785_b920fc13a7_s.jpg" align="" alt="Chris new 002" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=450786"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/786/450786_7baa9df93a_s.jpg" align="" alt="Chris new 018" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a></p> <p>The burial chambers date from around 1400 years ago from a culture that lasted only a couple of hundred years. If I understood the blurb in the museum later, they were pacifists, so presumably no match for more warlike neighbours. It is absolutely amazing how the colours on the painted walls of the tombs have lasted so long. Here are a few of the best photos I took. No flash was allowed so some are a bit fuzzy or dark...</p> <p><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=450798"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/798/450798_71f9b34584_s.jpg" align="" alt="Chris new 007" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=450799"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/799/450799_e8f1c51dd1_s.jpg" align="" alt="Chris new 015" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=450800"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/800/450800_a127857f94_s.jpg" align="" alt="Chris new 021" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a></p> <p>The steps down to the tombs were steep...</p> <p><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=450788"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/788/450788_4b024261ef_s.jpg" align="" alt="Chris new 008" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a></p> <p>...the dead were burried with treasures and things they would need in the next life in pots such as these...</p> <p><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=450789"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/789/450789_d1959440b0_s.jpg" align="" alt="Chris new 011" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=450790"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/790/450790_b028cfcdba_s.jpg" align="" alt="Chris new 013" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a></p> <p>An amazing morning, but no rest for the wicked. I wanted to go to San Agustin too, to see another culture that made statues such as this one in the museum at San Andres...</p> <p><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=450801"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/801/450801_0d4b130d10_s.jpg" align="" alt="Chris new 022" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a></p> <p>...but with another 5 hour bus journey, there was no time if I was to make it to Bogota for Thursday. I headed to Nieva to break the journey. Nieva is not at all used to foreign tourists - the hotel had to search for a different police register for foreigners - that's how many they had! I shall leave San Agustin to my next trip to Columbia.</p> <p><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=450802"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/802/450802_84b666f708_m.jpg" align="" alt="Chris new 014" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a></p> <p>Chris </p> <p> <small> <a href="http://chrishurling.blog.co.uk/2006/03/30/columbia_is_like_an_addiction_no_it_is_a~686576/#comments">Comments</a> </small> </p>columbiatierradentrohttp://chrishurling.blog.co.uk/2006/03/30/columbia_is_like_an_addiction_no_it_is_a~686576/#commentshttp://chrishurling.blog.co.uk/2006/03/30/sick_in_popayan~686285/tag:chrishurling.blog.co.uk,2006-03-30:/2006/03/30/sick_in_popayan~686285/Thu, 30 Mar 2006 17:31:50 +0200 <p>Perhaps it was several days of little sleep, getting up early to catch jeeps or buses, or the day spent up a mountain in hail, but I felt achey, snivelly and tired. Perhaps it was malaria?! I have been bitten enough times! I don't want to be tested for that...it means hanging around another two days for the results.</p> <p>Popayan is a lovely colonial town, and a nice place to rest. Completely restored after an earthquake, it is full of life, with a university. Except my hostal for the first night, that is. It was very cheap (2 quid), and I was very tired when I arrived after 10 hours on the bus from Manizales, but don't really know why I stayed there. The hostal I was recommended was full. "What's that" I said (in Spanish)..."una cucaracha" replied the landlady! I killed 3 before I went to sleep.</p> <p><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=450759"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/759/450759_a349ce810e_s.jpg" align="" alt="Chris 032" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=450738"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/738/450738_d346ce38bd_s.jpg" align="" alt="Chris 033" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a><br> <em>(Popayan Cathedral and Plaza Mayor)</em></p> <p>The next morning, I had planned to catch the bus to a little village called San Agustin, but felt worse, so moved to a lovely homely guest house listed in my guidebook. For only 4 quid a night I had my own room, double bed and peace and tranquility to sleep most of the day - oh and a hot shower and <em>no</em> cockroaches, except the one that crawled out of my back pack - eek! I felt so guilty contaminating their lovely home.</p> <p><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=450713"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/713/450713_70927d4c70_s.jpg" align="" alt="Chris 030" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=450736"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/736/450736_248831fad3_s.jpg" align="" alt="Chris 031" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a><br> <em>(more views of central Popayan)</em></p> <p>I did put the day to good use though. My own, far from expert stitching on my backpack, had come undone twice, and the zip on my daypack had broken. The nice old lady at my guest house told me where to find a handbag shop to get them mended. Great, they would be ready at 8am the next morning, and both for 6 quid! A very good job too! I am sure the guy in the shop is family - he was even more friendly than everyone else in the town. Oh and washing done, dried and ironed at the guest house for just 2.50 GBP. My towel hasn't quite recovered though from the trek to La Cuidad Perdida and smells after just one use...</p> <p>Another early night...</p> <p>Chris zzzzzz </p> <p> <small> <a href="http://chrishurling.blog.co.uk/2006/03/30/sick_in_popayan~686285/#comments">Comments</a> </small> </p>columbiapopayanhttp://chrishurling.blog.co.uk/2006/03/30/sick_in_popayan~686285/#commentshttp://chrishurling.blog.co.uk/2006/03/30/gluttony_for_punishment_los_nevados~686151/tag:chrishurling.blog.co.uk,2006-03-30:/2006/03/30/gluttony_for_punishment_los_nevados~686151/Thu, 30 Mar 2006 16:45:12 +0200 <p><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=450656"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/656/450656_0f3f90c481_m.jpg" align="" alt="Chris 022" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a></p> <p>An addendum to the story of "Close encounter with a guerilla"...back at the Plantation house that night a German guy, who had just returned from a 5 day trek, told of how he was "invited" to spend a night at a guerilla camp, lest he spill the beans to a batallion of government troops just 4km away.</p> <p>Friday morning, that is <em>last </em>Friday, I was up at 6am again to catch the early busetta to Armenia and then on to Manizales. I never quite know what is a collectivo, busetta or camionetta! A bus is a big vehicle, which could be a coach, or caro. False alarm! Marcus had heard wrog - the busetta leaves at 7.40 not 6.40. Time for me and Dan to cook breakfast though - creamy scrambled eggs (cooked to perfection by yours truly) and crispy American style bacon on toast. And lots of local coffee. </p> <p><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=450639"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/639/450639_42223dd0a2_s.jpg" align="" alt="Chris 019" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a></p> <p>At the bus stop, well corner by the fire station, we learned that there were no buses to Armenia due to landslides. So we took the took the bus to Pereira, in the opposite direction, to then catch another bus to Manizales. A 2.5 hour journey took 5 hours! By the time we arrived at our hostel in manizales we were frustrated, tired and bored. (Mountain House). The first attempt to relieve this was lunch in a "Thai" restaurant...with no curry on the menu! Next we split up - the boys going to find a tour agency for Los Nevados, and me and Jo went to the supermarket to shop for dinner. Jo is great to shop with...just like me -she loved wandering around, seeing things and getting inspiration on what to make. I am not convinced that cooking yourself is cheaper than eating in a comedor...it often out more expensive, although always receives comments like "that's the best meal I have had in months". We could see the snow capped La Ruiz volcano from the hostel, but no photo as it was in shadow...here's a fab sunset over clouds...haven't seen that in a city before - only from a plane!</p> <p><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=450640"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/640/450640_aa642e8497_s.jpg" align="" alt="Chris 021" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a></p> <p>Dan and Marcus got back from the bar absolutely off their trollies at 2.30am. The jeep came to collect us at 5.30am on Saturday morning! Dan and Marcus looked and smelled like they had drunk a distillery!</p> <p><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=450642"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/642/450642_104737aa38_s.jpg" align="" alt="Chris 023" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=450641"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/641/450641_b5dd75f1b7_s.jpg" align="" alt="Chris 020" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a></p> <p>A bit about Los Nevados. This is a national park in the very high (up to 5000m) Cordilera Mountain range. The very same range apparently continues to form the Rockies in the US. That's according to our very sweet and quite cute guide, Pablo. You have to take your own food, which his mother cooks for you in their mountain house. There was an option of a 5 hour walk to get a closer view of the snow-capped La Ruiz volcano (which last erupted in 1985 to devastating effect on Manizales), or a gentler 3 hour walk to the Large Verde. We took the 3 hour option. Quite a bleak landscape with unique species of flora.</p> <p><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=450644"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/644/450644_60084b3510_s.jpg" align="" alt="Chris 017" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=450643"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/643/450643_75f09b8a88_s.jpg" align="" alt="Chris 025" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a></p> <p>Cloud continually wafted over us...and we had to wait for the cloud and a hail storm to pass to see the lake from the look out point. Yes hail!! At this stage, my camera batteries died, and I am waiting for a photo from Marcus of us cold and wet.</p> <p><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=450657"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/657/450657_d2391c7e79_s.jpg" align="" alt="Chris 026" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=450658"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/658/450658_78248d1127_s.jpg" align="" alt="Chris 027" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a></p> <p>Back at the refuge, we were rewarded by hot chocolate, reheated sliced roast beef, rice and fruit salad. When Dan and Marcus had gone shopping for the food they had some notion of us having a picnic spread out on a blanket borrowed from the hostel! We were all grateful of the chance to warm ourselves infront of the wood fired kitchen range.</p> <p><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=450659"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/659/450659_c2408ebfca_s.jpg" align="" alt="Chris 028" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=450660"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/660/450660_d7d01ccbe5_s.jpg" align="" alt="Chris 029" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a></p> <p>Back to Manizales and an early night...</p> <p>Chris zzzzzzzz</p> <p> <small> <a href="http://chrishurling.blog.co.uk/2006/03/30/gluttony_for_punishment_los_nevados~686151/#comments">Comments</a> </small> </p>los-nevadoscolumbiahttp://chrishurling.blog.co.uk/2006/03/30/gluttony_for_punishment_los_nevados~686151/#commentshttp://chrishurling.blog.co.uk/2006/03/28/in_search_of_a_good_coffee~679494/tag:chrishurling.blog.co.uk,2006-03-28:/2006/03/28/in_search_of_a_good_coffee~679494/Tue, 28 Mar 2006 02:25:20 +0200 <p>So, after leaving Medellin and Iván, my search for good coffee took me 6 hours by bus south, to Periera and the Coffee Zone. I was met at Pereira bus station by two off Iván's aunts and a nun! The sweetie had arranged for them to meet me and take me to a hotel...I could have managed it myself. Periera is a pleasant but uninspiring town. It does have two nice squares...one with a statue of a nude Simon Bolivar, the hero of Columbia. One good thing though was my first good coffee for a few weeks - in a bakery. I had been woken at 6am by the tinkling bell of the lorry selling bottled gas! I guess it starts early incase people need gas to make their coffee for breakfast.</p> <p><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=445671"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/671/445671_7b63affa92_s.jpg" align="" alt="Chris 001" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=445672"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/672/445672_c83361f96d_s.jpg" align="" alt="Chris 002" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a><br> <em>(Pereira and a nude Simon Bolivar)</em></p> <p>Ivan couldn't understand why I wanted to go to a village called Salento. One good reason is that there is a lovely new travellers' hostel there, called Plantation House. I asked the collectivo to drop me off at the Fire Station as directed. Wonderful relaxing place. Before I had even checked in I was drinking coffee and talking to Sam from Boston, Marcus from Switzerland/Seattle, and Jo and Dan from Old Blighty.</p> <p><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=445673"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/673/445673_ea0e62a70a_s.jpg" align="" alt="Chris 003" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=445676"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/676/445676_55ea68ac7d_s.jpg" align="" alt="Chris 005" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a></p> <p>That afternoon, after a 45 min walk in the rain, we reached a Coffee Finca (farm). Here is a photo of me with Marcus and a very little guy who showed us around. I probably knew, but had forgotten that coffee beans start life as berries...which are red when ripe. The ripe berries go through various machines to strip off the outer skin and be washed before being dried in the sun, or by electric blowers. I risked life and limb to take these photies - I slipped on a wet tree trunk and fell on my back on another tree stump! Bruised and grazed, that's all.</p> <p><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=445674"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/674/445674_5054f32988_s.jpg" align="" alt="Chris 008" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=445675"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/675/445675_b03c5c7ccb_s.jpg" align="" alt="Chris 007" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a></p> <p>The little Columbian guy showed us the top quality beans for export, and a rather sorry looking tub of mishapen beans and grit for domestic consumption! No wonder coffee is better back home! The coffee still tasted good...this was an organic finca...especially after I asked for my second cup without the obligatory shovels full of sugar.</p> <p><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=445683"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/683/445683_74cc75c01b_s.jpg" align="" alt="Chris 010" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a><br> <em>(crammed in a jeep)</em></p> <p>It was till raining so we crammed into a jeep for the ride back to the hostel. Jeeps are the public transport around here...roads are very bumpy and wet (it rains <em>alot</em> here). Fab local food that night in the village square - trout in a wickedly creamy sauce and topped with a huge flattended and then fried plantain. </p> <p><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=445684"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/684/445684_3d06b8292d_s.jpg" align="" alt="Chris 009" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a></p> <p>The evening ended in a bar playing pool until we were sharly evicted at 11.30. Apparently the army runs the village and had decided that Wednesday would be an early closing night! </p> <p><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=445685"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/685/445685_40cf2cc5c5_s.jpg" align="" alt="Chris 011" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a><br> <em>(Salento at night)</em></p> <p> <small> <a href="http://chrishurling.blog.co.uk/2006/03/28/in_search_of_a_good_coffee~679494/#comments">Comments</a> </small> </p>columbiazona-cafeterahttp://chrishurling.blog.co.uk/2006/03/28/in_search_of_a_good_coffee~679494/#commentshttp://chrishurling.blog.co.uk/2006/03/21/guatape~664399/tag:chrishurling.blog.co.uk,2006-03-21:/2006/03/21/guatape~664399/Tue, 21 Mar 2006 18:10:33 +0100 <p>No rest for the wicked! By 8am, I was up, showered, breakfasted and riding on the back of Ivan's scooter to the market to buy stuff for dinner the next evening. Friends of mine will know that I love food markets...and that I need to be kept on tights reins! Who is that TV chef who does his shopping around London on his scooter? Jamie Oliver. I rather be holding onto a gorgeous Columbean guy as we zip in and out of traffic any day!</p> <p><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=434625"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/625/434625_ef589e9329_s.jpg" align="" alt="Chris 008" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a></p> <p>First stop was to buy fish, Talapia, which we get back home, although I have only seen it pre-frozen as it comes from the Caribbean. Then some sort of leaf to cook the fish in. </p> <p><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=434626"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/626/434626_7218e7091a_s.jpg" align="" alt="Chris 003" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=434627"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/627/434627_a390de6e29_s.jpg" align="" alt="Chris 007" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a></p> <p>I couldn't help having a look at the herb stalls...all sorts of fresh and dried herbs. Just checking that the cheese is fresh!</p> <p><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=434628"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/628/434628_aba1c9d6d4_s.jpg" align="" alt="Chris 004" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=434629"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/629/434629_3ec4bd591a_s.jpg" align="" alt="Chris 006" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a></p> <p>There is a small farmers market a few minutes from Ivan's flat which we called in at most days...</p> <p><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=434630"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/630/434630_e1cf85b173_s.jpg" align="" alt="Chris 001" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a></p> <p>Back to the appartment to drop off the shopping and then a short walk to the nearby Metro station to the Terminal de Transportes Norte, in otherwords, the bus station. Like other South American countries, Columbia once had a large railway network, but that has now disappeared. Travel is by car and bus. Our day had yet to begin, and a daytrip to Guatapé. The bus was a traditional gaily painted Columbian bus, which wound it's way along mountain roads for a couple of hours. It was bank holiday weekend, so the world, his wife and his entire family seemed to be at El Pleñol, a smooth weathered rock near to Guatapé I was the only foreign tourist though! It seems I was the tourist attraction too - kids would come up to me and just stare! Some photos climbing the rock and also views from the top. It was a bit cloudy, as it is now the beginning of "winter".</p> <p><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=433055"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/055/433055_bfe48f6962_s.jpg" align="" alt="Chris 021" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=433056"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/056/433056_55a57d8f6e_s.jpg" align="" alt="Chris 022" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=433057"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/057/433057_7242404bad_s.jpg" align="" alt="Chris 023" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a></p> <p>Then a fish lunch with fab views. To get back to Guatapé we rode on the top of a jeep...holding on for dear life! A great view of El Pleñol though!</p> <p><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=433058"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/058/433058_bb17318701_s.jpg" align="" alt="Chris 024" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=433059"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/059/433059_505a50164d_s.jpg" align="" alt="Chris 026" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=433060"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/060/433060_f2326ed120_s.jpg" align="" alt="Chris 027" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a></p> <p>This was not our bus, but I couldn't help taking a photo of a typical Paisa rural bus! You can just about see me climbing the ladder at the back.</p> <p><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=433069"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/069/433069_9c148814d1_s.jpg" align="" alt="Chris 029" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a></p> <p>Wow! What a day. The evening was a quiet one in front of the telly.</p> <p>On bank holiday Monday (for some saint, I can't remember which) Ivan had a rehersal for a dancing role in a contemporary production of Carmen at the Metropolitan Theatre in Medellin. I went along for a free show. When we arrived at 2pm it was clear that the orchestra in particular was not ready for a full dress rehersal, and the director was stressed. I left for a couple of hours to the El Tresor shopping mall in the hills overlooking the city. Not a large shopping centre, but it had what I wanted...a "thank you" gift for Ivan. I could have been shopping in Elephant or Purves & Purves in Tottenham Court Road! I found a scented candle and an arty wooden thingy to put it on. I seemed to be entertaining the staff, especially as I described how I wanted it gift wrapped! My clothes are getting so thin with all the washings, and most have holes! I treated myself to a new polo shirt for a third the price in the UK...soem brand called Chevignon...I think it's French, but no doubt made in Columbia. By the way, Medellin is the centre of the garment making industry in Columbia, so if you have space in your rucksack, or if pehaps you bring an empty suitcase, you can stock up at the factory outlet shops!</p> <p>Ivan came rushing off the stage when I got back from shopping - I had been gone 4 hours! I had splashed out a fiver for a lovely salad at Crepes and Waffles, and got chatting to a Columbian guy who had grown up in Long Island, New York, but moved back to Columbia. People are so friendly - he bought me a beer. Most people here hate the US for its arrogance, foreign policy, of of course its president. This guy was no exception. </p> <p>We got back from the rehersal at 8.30pm. Ivan had been up early prepping dinner, but poor love, he did look stressed. I helped wrap the fish in the leaves and then foil for baking. Now back home in London, there is a crisis if there aren't at least two bottles of wine per person in the fridge! No worries here. The boys take their jobs seriously and I was the only one who had more than a couple of glasses. I didn't get drunk though. Oh, the guests were the director and stage manager from Carmen!</p> <p><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=434692"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/692/434692_159be0ab3b_s.jpg" align="" alt="Chris 016" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=434693"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/693/434693_079f5c4b63_s.jpg" align="" alt="Chris 010" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=434694"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/694/434694_0eeb3ebcdc_s.jpg" align="" alt="Chris 011" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=434695"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/695/434695_6affd8175f_s.jpg" align="" alt="Chris 012" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a></p> <p>Adios Medellin and hasta luego Iván. He hecho un bien tiempo. Muchas gracias.</p> <p>Chris xxx </p> <p> <small> <a href="http://chrishurling.blog.co.uk/2006/03/21/guatape~664399/#comments">Comments</a> </small> </p>columbiamedellinhttp://chrishurling.blog.co.uk/2006/03/21/guatape~664399/#commentshttp://chrishurling.blog.co.uk/2006/03/21/botero~664369/tag:chrishurling.blog.co.uk,2006-03-21:/2006/03/21/botero~664369/Tue, 21 Mar 2006 17:59:42 +0100 <p>Medellin is the home town of Columbia's most famous artist, Botero, although he now mostly lives in Italy. Whilst Ivan was teaching ballet, I wandered a few blocks to the Museo de Antioquia, which has an even bigger collection of Botero than in Bogota. </p> <p><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=433019"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/019/433019_d79288fbe6_s.jpg" align="" alt="Chris 006" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a> <em>(Museo de Antioquia)</em></p> <p>The museum was not busy. More tourists have been coming to Columbia in the last year or so, but the main seasons are January and February, and July. On the way are statues in Parque San Antonio. Yes, for the observant, Ivan is in one of the picture, which we actually took in the morning before he went to work!</p> <p><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=433020"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/020/433020_981ff34972_s.jpg" align="" alt="Chris 002" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=433021"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/021/433021_7e19c3ed9c_s.jpg" align="" alt="Chris 003" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=433022"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/022/433022_bce8e174ed_s.jpg" align="" alt="Chris 004" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a></p> <p>Ivan joined me and we wound our way very slowly up one of the hills to a posh barrio for lunch. The scooter only just coped with both of us on it! Here's me having a typical Medellin dish of beans with various bits of pork...including scratchings, which I left. Ivan eats constantly, and loads of carbs, no doubt being so lean he doesn't have quite the energy reserves that I do!</p> <p><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=433031"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/031/433031_08fa4f584d_s.jpg" align="" alt="Chris 020" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a></p> <p>Next on the tour was the Pueblito Paisa. This is a touristy reconstruction of a typical Paisa town, but has great views of the city. By the way, Paisa is the name for people from the Medellin area.</p> <p><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=433032"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/032/433032_1fcf6a4788_s.jpg" align="" alt="Chris 005" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a> <em><br> (view of Medellin from Pueblito Paisa).</em></p> <p>Ivan is a great guide, and even though he was tired he insisted we go out on Saturday night to dance...Lips was the venue. It was a fun night, with a typical small town feel, where everyone seemed to know each other. It was not that busy. I reckon that Bogota is the place to go for a good gay scene in Columbia. However, I had come to visit Ivan, and experience life in Columbia...</p> <p>Chris </p> <p> <small> <a href="http://chrishurling.blog.co.uk/2006/03/21/botero~664369/#comments">Comments</a> </small> </p>boterocolumbiamedellinhttp://chrishurling.blog.co.uk/2006/03/21/botero~664369/#commentshttp://chrishurling.blog.co.uk/2006/03/21/medellin_the_city_of_eternal_springtime~664264/tag:chrishurling.blog.co.uk,2006-03-21:/2006/03/21/medellin_the_city_of_eternal_springtime~664264/Tue, 21 Mar 2006 17:27:00 +0100 <p>So called, because of the mountain climate...not as high as Bogota, but still 1,700m above sea level. It is lush and green and very modern. It has thrown off it's drugs cartel image, after the shooting of the infamous drug barron Ascobar in teh 80s. A comfortable city to live, with a growing middle class...although it has its share of poor barrios. More on those later. Medellin is Columbia's second biggest city and boasts a new metro! It's actually an elevated railway from which you have great views over the city as you speed by.</p> <p>Another feature of the metro system is the MetroCable - a cable car that takes you from the metro station up a hill with station in the poor barrios! Fab. You get a good view of people doing their washing or watching TV! The people living in the barrio are very poor - the minimum wage in Columbia is about $US175 a month - not easy to live on even in Columbia. However, the barrios looked better than the favellas in Brazil, and now have a shiny new cable car! </p> <p><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=432955"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/955/432955_5335f0b87c_s.jpg" align="" alt="Chris 014" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=432956"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/956/432956_2f82c59fc5_s.jpg" align="" alt="Chris 012" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=432957"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/957/432957_8939177011_s.jpg" align="" alt="Chris 011" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=432958"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/958/432958_6029e79a39_s.jpg" align="" alt="Chris 013" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a></p> <p>Strange - when we got to the top, no one in our car got out! We weren't the only tourists riding the metro cable! I was the only non-Columbian though. I did feel sorry for the people actually living there and queuing to get home!</p> <p>Winding back now to Friday afternoon, Ivan met me at the airport...with flowers! I was so embarrasssed! I was his guest and hadn't bought anything! The colectivo journey to downtown took an hour, so plenty of time to chat - in Spanish! I had a headache by the time we got to Ivan's appartment. The appartment is just off Plaza Bolivar, and is a lovely little two bedroomed place in a fully serviced block with 24 hour concierge. Here's me mending my new Diesel jeans which I snagged on the colectivo! Dam! That was false economy flying to the international rather than the city airport...we would have just got a cab from there.</p> <p><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=432977"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/977/432977_d940ca48b6_s.jpg" align="" alt="Chris 001" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=432979"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/979/432979_95ecc298fa_s.jpg" align="" alt="Chris 007" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a> <em>(Catedral Metropolitan, Plaza Bolivar)</em></p> <p>Time for a quick orientation tour around the centre of town and then off to Ivan's ballet school on the back of his scooter! Heads turned as we wove in and out of the traffic...was it because I was the only gringo looking person about, or because Ivan looks very compact against my rubgy-type bulk?! </p> <p><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=432985"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/985/432985_60331b15cc_s.jpg" align="" alt="Chris 010" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a> </p> <p>No photos of the dance class - my camera is just not fast enough at focussing for people moving. An interesting hour or so, including a tour of the school. Back home for dinner and then out to a gay bar, the name of which I cannot remember. It wasn't very busy and Ivan had to work the next morning.</p> <p>Chris</p> <p> <small> <a href="http://chrishurling.blog.co.uk/2006/03/21/medellin_the_city_of_eternal_springtime~664264/#comments">Comments</a> </small> </p>http://chrishurling.blog.co.uk/2006/03/21/medellin_the_city_of_eternal_springtime~664264/#commentshttp://chrishurling.blog.co.uk/2006/03/17/chill_out_at_the_beach~651778/tag:chrishurling.blog.co.uk,2006-03-17:/2006/03/17/chill_out_at_the_beach~651778/Fri, 17 Mar 2006 14:06:50 +0100 <p>The planned big celebration after La Cuidad Perdida trek didn't work out. Everyone was up for it, but it was a dry weekend in Columbia! Shops couldn't sell booze and bars and clubs were shut. So much for that mojito, the thought of which had kept me going during the hottest, sweatiest and wettest day of the trek! The Columbian national assembly elections were on Sunday. Only hostels were selling beer, for consumption behind closed doors only!</p> <p>Genny and I had planned to chill out under palm trees on the beach at Parque Tayrona. This was not too be. All transport stops on election day, taxis and colectivo vans being requistioned to ferry voters about. Not asilly put off, we headed for the bus stop, as we met some travellers who had just got off a bus from Parque Tayrona. It was not to be. All the locals were saying no buses. We eventually met another guy from the hostel who had been waiting two an a half hours for his bus to a mountain village. </p> <p>Plan B was to go back to Taganga - the lovely fishing village 20 mins from Santa Marta. I still can't get over how genuinely helpful and friendly Columbians are. A woman and her family told us where to wait for the colectivo, even came over to make sure we were standing in the shade. It is <em>hot</em> here. No collectivo came, so the family then advised a taxi, and told us how much we should pay. Reassuringly, this is what we had been paying for our trips to and from Taganga.</p> <p>So, on Monday morning we could finally go to Parque Tayrona, and caught a colectivo back to Santa Marta at 8am. We restocked provisions at the supermarket, and Genny bought a hammock, and I a mosquito net from the market. Great market. Meat and fish area smelt a bit, but the fish is probably fresher than you will get in any supermarket back home. Transport was working, and after an hour bus ride we were being checked in to the park by a very cute young guy in traditioanl Taironan white tunic and flowy trousers. The walk to the first campsite is 45 minutes, but we were recommended to stay at the third one, another 45 mins. The 5 litre bottle of water in my rucksack got heavier and heavier...</p> <p><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=423676"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/676/423676_8d83acfa74_s.jpg" align="" alt="Chris 020" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=423677"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/677/423677_abff85c921_s.jpg" align="" alt="Chris 023" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a></p> <p>What a beautiful place! Where jungle meets sea. We rented hammocks for GBP 1.50 a night and chilled out! (for any monied people there are beautiful individual lodges available at another site for GBP 45 to 60 a night depending on the time of year). The first evening we watched the sun go down from the rocks, drinking rum and coke. Bliss. Food is expensive (by Columbian standards) as it has to be transported by donkey. The breakfasts were good value, so the time we lived on fruit, tuna and salad sandwiches from our provisions. Here's me trying to get into a coconut. Not easy without a machete, although I did manage to get the water out to drink using my swiss army knife!</p> <p><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=423678"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/678/423678_f0e449c5cc_s.jpg" align="" alt="Chris 022" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a></p> <p>"I thought this was supposed to be a rest" Genny said as we hiked for 2 hours to a Taironan ruined city called Pueblito. "It was your idea!" I joked back. It was a beautiful walk, through dry jungle forrest, with dappled shade and gentle breezes. Somehow Pueblito didn't impress quite as much as La Cuidad Perdida, even thought it was bigger, with the remains of impressive stone paved streets and covered waterways. Perhaps it was too easy to get to?</p> <p><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=423679"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/679/423679_f86c875a5d_s.jpg" align="" alt="Chris 021" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=423698"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/698/423698_171c03caf1_s.jpg" align="" alt="Chris 019" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a><br> <em>(Pueblito)</em></p> <p>You can hear monkeys in the jungle, but the only wildlife we saw, except for millions of ants, was this spider which had spun its web across the path! It was big...no fun for any arachnophobe!</p> <p><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=423682"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/682/423682_d62c6d6e3b_s.jpg" align="" alt="Chris 024" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a> </p> <p>Genny is a sweet girl, well actually a woman in her mid 20s. She is not a figment of my imagination, honestly, but there are no photos as she is camera shy too. Quietly spoken...at times it was difficult to hear what she was saying, Genny was a good travelling companion, and did come out of herself after a few drinks! So, Genny goes to Venezuela en route to Brazil, and I head first to Cartagena to pick up some deet my parents sent me (you can't get the stuff here), and then a short flight to Medellin to meet Ivan. Ivan you may remember I met on a long distance bus in Peru, and we have been in touch by email, so I am staying with him for the weekend! And yes, money may be running out but I managed to get a flight for a good price. I heard that an overnight bus from Bogota to Santa Marta was shot at by guerillas in the week before the election. The driver just put his foot down and kept going until he got to the next petrol station. Two passengers had been shot in the leg, but no one killed. Seems that the FCO website may be out of date about the Lost City, but was right that there would be an escalation of violence running up to the election. </p> <p>I still love Columbia though!</p> <p>Speak to you next afrer the weekend,</p> <p>Chris </p> <p> <small> <a href="http://chrishurling.blog.co.uk/2006/03/17/chill_out_at_the_beach~651778/#comments">Comments</a> </small> </p>columbiaparque-tayronahttp://chrishurling.blog.co.uk/2006/03/17/chill_out_at_the_beach~651778/#commentshttp://chrishurling.blog.co.uk/2006/03/17/the_trek_out_of_the_jungle~650591/tag:chrishurling.blog.co.uk,2006-03-17:/2006/03/17/the_trek_out_of_the_jungle~650591/Fri, 17 Mar 2006 04:03:56 +0100 <p>At La Cuidad Perdida, the group slpit into 2, with 8 of us taking an alternative route back. This was promised to be slightly longer, but more scenic. Going back down those 1240 steps was not easy. My legs were like jelly by the time I got to the bottom. No rest for the wicked however! We had a 6 hour trek ahead of us! Actually, more like a route march!</p> <p>The path is not often used, so Jose had to cut our way with a machete. It used to be in FARC (guerilla) controlled territory, but is now under the paramilitaries. An hour into the walk and I wandered what I had let myself in for. An hour slipping and sliding in the mud down a valley side, and an hour going up the other side! I thought I wouldn't make it. Going down, I slipped and fell on my bum twice...the German guy Michel fell countless times - he only had trainers! </p> <p><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=423133"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/133/423133_3332ca9922_s.jpg" align="" alt="Chris 009" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a></p> <p>At the bottom of another hill we crossed a stream. I missed my footing and ended up in teh river with water over my boots. I emptied them out at the other side. I would now squelch for the rest of the day. It started to rain. Going uphill was hard. You had to try to get a foot hold, and not slip back, as well as keeping your balance with a backpack on. And the backpack got heavier as the days went on. My t shirts were cotton and became so heavy with sweat and rain, and nothing dried when we got to camp, as it rained every afternoon and night. </p> <p>The first night's camp, called Alta Mira, was beautiful. Traditional round huts with roofs of palm leaves, built on old terraces. The shower and loo were fab. Not only was the loo of a flushing variety, but you had a view over the whole valley from the open side! Same for the shower! We stayed up until 10pm playing scrabble and smoking a little of that weed.</p> <p><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=423123"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/123/423123_6097021a03_s.jpg" align="" alt="Chris 003" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=423124"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/124/423124_8ea692e71e_s.jpg" align="" alt="Chris 004" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=423125"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/125/423125_d9e509cd00_s.jpg" align="" alt="Chris 005" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=423126"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/126/423126_e1e425edeb_s.jpg" align="" alt="Chris 007" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a></p> <p>The next morning, Jose made arepas con huevos. A round fritter of corn meal which is lightly fried and then split at one end and a raw egg poured in. It is resealed and fried again. Guaranteed to slow you down on the hills! The 5th day was another tough day of hiking up and down hills through dense jungle. My shorts and boots were caked in mud! I kept myself going with the thought of being back in Santa Marta in clean clothes and drinking a cocktail. </p> <p>The camp for that night was even more wonderful. On a hill, with a large kitchen and communal hut with open sides and views over the jungle. We were supposed to walk another two hours, but Alvaro said we should stay there and get up at 4.30am the next morning to walk 5 hours to meet the bus.</p> <p>I had little sleep that night. Mosquitos buzzed in my ears, and others were up all night going to the loo. The conversation among travellers always comes around to your tum and motions. I was lucky on the trek. My poo was prefect is consistency...if a little larger than usual, no doubt due to all the carbs we were eating! We waited until dawn and set out. The walk was wonderful. The sun shone, we had amazing jungle views, and the path was gentle. We marched on just coffee and a banana for 4 hours until breakfast. Here is a photo of hero worship, and also a group photo of some very tired people.</p> <p><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=423128"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/128/423128_1e2ad19791_s.jpg" align="" alt="Chris 014" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=423129"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/129/423129_30b735ad4f_s.jpg" align="" alt="Chris 008" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a></p> <p>By now we all stank of stale sweat and jungle. My rucksack was so heavy with wet clothes that wouldn't dry. It was with relief that I saw our transport. A lorry, for a very bumpy 3 hour ride to Santa Marta!</p> <p><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=423131"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/131/423131_2aaf08724c_s.jpg" align="" alt="Chris 006" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a></p> <p>Would I do it again? Yes. But I will buy the correct gear, like hiking clothes that dry quickly, and pack much more lightly. A set of day clothes that you rinse at night and put on wet in the morning, and a dry set for camp. I also need better hiking boots...mine slip all over the place - my sandals had better grip!</p> <p>The jungle trek to the Lost City was an amazing experience.</p> <p><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=423122"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/122/423122_e161a87dc7_s.jpg" align="" alt="Chris 015" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=423136"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/136/423136_b98a09ac78_s.jpg" align="" alt="Chris 002" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=423137"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/137/423137_100f74b663_s.jpg" align="" alt="Chris 001" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=423138"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/138/423138_dd84df5df7_s.jpg" align="" alt="Chris 011" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=423139"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/139/423139_6aad55ac69_s.jpg" align="" alt="Chris 012" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a><a href="http://www.blog.co.uk/srv/media/media_item.php?item_ID=423141"><img src="http://data1.blog.de/media/141/423141_4c7b77ba49_s.jpg" align="" alt="Chris 013" vspace="5" hspace="5"></a></p> <p>Chris <img src="/img/smilies/icon_smile.gif" alt=":)" class="middle" border="0"> </p> <p> <small> <a href="http://chrishurling.blog.co.uk/2006/03/17/the_trek_out_of_the_jungle~650591/#comments">Comments</a> </small> </p>lost-citycolumbiahttp://chrishurling.blog.co.uk/2006/03/17/the_trek_out_of_the_jungle~650591/#comments